IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


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23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  USIO 

(716)  •72-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Instltut  canndien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibiiographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


D 


n 


□ 


n 


n 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaur^e  et/ou  pellicuide 


r~~|    Cover  title  missing/ 


Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


I      I    Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 


Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Relid  avec  d'autres  documents 

Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

Lareliure  serrde  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  int^rieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  6tait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  film^es. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6t6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


D 


• 


D 
0 
D 
0 
D 
D 
D 
D 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ca  document  est  filmA  au  taux  de  rMuction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentairc 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partieliement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fapon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleura  image  possible. 


The 
to  th 


The 
posi 
of  tt 
filmi 


Orig 
begi 
thai 
sion 
othfl 
first 
sion 
Drill 


The 
shal 
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whii 

Map 
diffc 
antii 
begi 
righ 
raqi 
met 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

^ 

12X 

16X 

20X 

24X 

28X 

32X 

The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Brock  University 
St.  Catharines 


L'exemplaire  film^  fut  reproduit  grdce  ^  la 
g^n^rositd  de: 

Brock  University 
St.  Catharines 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Les  images  suivantas  ont  6xi  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet^  de  l'exemplaire  filmd,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illuatrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


Les  exemplairss  originaux  dont  la  couvertura  en 
papier  est  imprimte  sont  filmis  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporta  une  empreinta 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  seion  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shell  contain  the  symbol  —^•(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
derniAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  seion  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — »•  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film^s  i  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cliche,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  it  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrant  la  mithode. 


1 

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BOOK  OP 


NIAGARA  FALLS. 


Flow  on  forever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty !  God  hath  set 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantled  around  thy  fec-t.    And  he  doth  give 
The  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
Eternally — bidding  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar  pour 
Incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 

(See  page  84  ) 


4 


GUIDE  TO  TRA\  EliEK* 


VISITING  THE 


FALLS  OF  NIAGARA, 


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CONTAIIVING  MUCH  INTERESTING  AND    IMPORTANT 
INFORMATION  RESPECTING  THE  FALLS 
AND    VICINITY,    ACCOMPA- 
NIED BY  MAPS. 


lit 


BY  HORATIO  A.  PARSONS,  A.  M. 


Soeoiid  Edition  Oreatly  Kiilargedt      jb 


4  '. 


BUFFALO: 

pt:rltsiied  by  Oliver  g.  Steele. 


(HVRI.KS   FAXON.    PRINTER. 


1835. 


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Entered  according  to  the  Act  of  Congress,  in 
the  year  1836,  by 

'         OLIVER  G.  STEELE,  Proprietor, 
in  the  Clerk's  Office  of  the  District  Court  of  the 
Northern  District  of  New  York. 


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ADVERTISEMENT. 


— •  '•»»©  ©  044«»- 


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The  writer  of  the  following  pages,  having  been 
a  resident  at  the  Falls  a  nunnber  of  years,  and  fa- 
miliar with  the  whole  scenery  at  all  seasons  of 
the  year,  as  well  as  with  all  the  interesting  locali- 
ties in  the  vicinity,  and  having  omitted  no  moans 
of  obtaining  correct  information  in  regard  to  the 
various  facts  stated,  feels  free  to  offer  this  manual 
as  a  correct  and  sufficient  guide  to  visiters,  in 
which  they  will  find,  within  a  small  compass,  an 
ample  fund  of  information  respecting  the  Falls 
and  vicinity.     Having  no  particular  or  private  in- 
terests to  serve,  he  has  aimed  to  give  an  impar- 
tial description  of  the  different  objects  of  interest 
on  both  sides   of  the  river,  and  to  do  justice  to 
all  persons  concerned.     The  plan  of  pubhshing 
such  a  manual  was  formed  eight  years  ago,  and 
most  of  the  materials  were  then  collected  and  ar- 
ranged ;  but  for  various  reasons  it  was  not  pub- 


lished  till  the  year  1834,  though  it  was  the  first 
book  of  the  kind  that  had  ever  been  pubUshed  re- 
specting the  Falls.  Most  of  the  first  edition  was 
sold  in  the  course  ot  three  months  last  season. 
From  an  intercourse  with  a  vast  number  of  visit- 
ers at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  he  has  been  ena- 
bled to  ascertain  what  kind  of  information  they 
most  need,  and  has  greatly  enlarged  the  present 
edition  in  order,  if  possible,  to  afford  ample  infor- 
mation in  relation  to  every  thing  connected  with 
the  Falls  and  vicinity,  about  which  inquiries  would 
naturally  be  made. 

0:^  New  editions  of  this  Manual  will  be  pub- 
lished from  time  to  time,  as  they  may  be  needed, 
containing  notices  of  incidents  and  such  additional 
information  as  may  be  useful  to  the  Traveler  and 
Tourist. 

JViagara  Falls,  1835. 


4 


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CONTENTS. 

Page. 

Advertisement, 7 

Directions  to  Travelers, 9 

Niagara  River,  Its  Sources  and  Islands,        -        -        -  14 

Thellapids, 2a 

Goat  or  Iris  Island, -  23 

The  Falls,  Terrapin  Bridge  and  Tower,   -        -        -      28 
Biddle  Stair  Case,  iEolus'  Cave,  &c.  -        -        -  34 

The  Ferry, -      38 

C  anada  Views, 40 

Welland  Canal, 43 

Brock's  Monument, 44 

Burning  Spring, 46 

Stair  Case, 46 

Museum, -      46 

Summer  and  Winter  Scenery, 47 

River  below  the  Falls, 50 

Remarks  of  Hennepin,  Tonti,  Hontan,  5cc.  -        -        -  62 

Curiosities,  &c. 58 

Mineral  Spring, -        -  59 

Whirlpool,      .        -    •     -  ....      go 


8 


Devil's  Hole, 
Tuscavora  Indians, 
Battles,      .        -        - 
Bridges, 
Minerals  &c. 

Incidents, 

Hermit  of  the  Falls, 
Village  of  Niagara  Falls, 
Number  of  Visiters,   - 
Routes  and  Charges, 
Tables  of  Distances,  - 


-  63 
65 

-  66 
67 

-  69 

70 

-  74 

78 

-  82 
86 

-  89 


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mRECTIONS   TO   TRAVELERS  AFTER 
THEY  ARRIVE  AT  THE  FALLS. 


•»»♦►©  ®  ®4<«— 


A  FEW  directions  may  be  necessary  to  enable 
you  to  save  time  and  see  the  Falls  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage. Arriving  on  either  side,  it  is  recom- 
mended to  ladies  to  nut  on  leather  or  other  stout 
shoesr  and  to  gentlemen  to  take  with  them  an  um- 
brella to  guard  against  the  mist.  If  you  arrive  on 
the  American  side,  turn  to  the  right  around  either 
of  the  Hotels,  and  proceed  a  few  rods  to  the  bridge 
that  leads  across  the  rapids  to  Bath  and  Goat 
Islands  ;  you  will  stop  at  the  toll-house  on  Bath 
Island  when  you  pass  over,  record  your  name  in  the 
register  and  pay  twenty-five  cents  ;  which  entitles 
you  to  visit  all  the  islands  with  their  appendages  as 
often  as  you  please  during  your  visit  or  for  a  year, 
without  any  additional  charge.  And  if  you  choose 
to  cross  in  a  carriage,  you  pay  no  more.  If  you 
cross  the  second  or  the  hundredth  time  the  record 
of  your  name  in  the  register  is  sufHcicnt  evidence 


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that  your  toll  has  been  paid.  Proceed  next  to 
Goat  Island,  where  you  will  find  guide-boards  di- 
recting you  to  all  the  most  interesting  places  and 
objects  around  the  island.  Follow  the  gravel  walk 
at  the  right,  down  to  the  cascade  or  centre  fall  and 
cross  a  narrow  bridge  to  Luna  Island,  from  the 
farther  corner  of  which  you  will  have  the  best 
and  most  splendid  view  of  the  Falls  on  the  Ameri- 
can side.  Retracing  your  steps  to  the  gravel 
walk,  proceed  next  to  the  Biddle  Staircase  ;  de- 
scend that  without  fail,  as  you  will  there  have  a 
magnificent  and  much  admired  view  of  the  two 
entire  Falls,  standing  between  them,  and  an  op- 
portunity, if  the  wind  be  favorable,  of  passing  a 
considerable  distance  behind  either  sheet,  with  the 
tremendous  flood  pouring  over  you  from  a  height 
of  150  feet.  From  the  foot  of  the  staircase,  turn 
first  to  the  right  and  go  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds 
under  the  centre  fall,  and  in  returning,  follow  the 
path  to  the  great  Cresent  fall. 

Reaching  the  top  of  the  island  again,  proceed  to 
the  farther  corner,  where  you  will  find  the  Stone 
Tower  forty^five  feet  high  with  winding  steps  to 
the  top,  and  also  the  Terrapin  Bridge,  from  both 
which  places  you  will  have  decidedly  the  best  and 
most  impressive  views  of  the  Falls,  that  can  be 


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had  from  any  position.  Here  you  will  realize 
power,  grandeur,  sublimity,  immensity, — no  pen 
or  tongue  can  describe  it. 

Pursuing  your  way  with  a  view  to  go  entirely 
round  the  island, — as  you  ought  without  fail  to  do, 
inasmuch  as  you  will  thus  get  a  much  better  view 
of  the  rapids  and  surrounding  scenery  than  can  be 
obtained  any  where  else, — you  will  proceed  up  to 
a  beautiful  cascade,  where,  under  the  shelter  in 
part  of  a  projecting  rock,  you  can  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  bathe  in  the  sparkling  foam  of  Niagara. 

**  This  is  the  purest  exercise  of  health,  ' 
The  kind  refresher  of  the  summer  heats." 

A  rustic  bridge  here  gives  you  access  to  the  Moss 
islands,  which  are  well  worthy  a  visit.  Just  above 
these  islands  you  have  the  very  best  view  of  the 
rapids,  that  is  presented  from  any  place  about  the 
Falls.  Proceeding  round  the  head  of  the  island, 
you  cross  the  place,  nearly  opposite  the  saw  mill, 
where  a  number  of  human  skeletons  have  been 
dug  up, — supposed  to  be  the  former  site  of  an 
Indian  burying  ground. 

If  your  visit  is  protracted  at  the  Falls,  you  ought 
to  pass  around  and  through  Goat  Island  by  the 
different  paths  in  order  t^^  observe  its  picturesque 
beauty  and  realize  its  thousand  attractions.     You 


12 


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ought  also,  if  time  permit,  to  visit  the  site  of  old 
Fort  Schlosser,  the  mineral  spring,  the  whirlpool, 
the  Devil's  Hole,  &c.  to  all  which  places  the 
coach-drivers  will  conduct  you,  and  give  such  in- 
formation and  directions  as  you  may  need. 

In  order  to  cross  the  river,  proceed  from  the 
bridge  to  the  staircase  near  the  edge  of  the  Falls, 
at  the  foot  of  which  you  will  have  a  very  near  view 
of  the  highest  fall  and  a  most  charming  prospect  of 
the  entire  Falls.  Take  a  look  from  the  window 
of  the  Staircase  and  you  will  realize  the  truth  of 
Shakspeare's  description, 

*  *  How  fearful 
And  dizzy  'tis  to  cast  one's  eyes  so  low  !    - 
''  >^%  I'll  look  no  more, 

-^  Lest  my  brain  turn  and  the  deficient  sight 

Topple  down  headlong."      ,  ,.       . ,,    .•  ; 

In  crossing  the  river,  not  the  least  danger  need 
be  apprehended ;  it  is  a  perfectly  safe  and  most 
delightful  excursion,  and  persons  sometimes  swim 
across  and  find  it  a  real  luxury.  The  time  occu- 
pied in  crossing  is  ordinarily  about  eight  minutes, 
and  the  ferriage  is  18|  cents  from  May  to  No- 
vember and  25  cents  from  November  to  May.  If 
you  have  trunks  or  other  luggage  to  be  transported 
from  either  side   to   the  other,  the  ferrymen  will 


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convey  them  safely  at  a  reasonable  charge.     The 
river  is  here  76  rods  wide  and  250  feet  deep. 

Having  crossed  the  river,  proceed  up  the  bank 
by  a  carriage  road,  to  Fido's  elegant  and  inviting 
confectionary  establishment,  where,  if  you  choose, 
you  can  refresh  yourself  with  ice  cream  and  other 
luxuries, — and  thence  to  Table  Rock,  where  you 
will  find  a  spiral  staircase,  from  the  foot  of  which 
you  can  pass  153  feet  behind  the  sheet  of  water. 
This  staircase  is  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Slarkey, 
who  furnishes  dresses  and  a  guide  for  visiters, 
who  wish  to  go  behind  the  sheet;  he  also  keeps 
a  reading  room  and  a  neat  and  inviting  shop  of 
refreshments. 

From  Tabic  Rock  you  have  one  broad  an^  im» 
posing  view  of  the  whole  Falls,  and  much  of  the 
scenery  of  the  rapids  and  islands.  Many  visiters 
prefer  this  view  to  any  other ;  but  it  is  generally 
conceded  that  the  view  from  the  Terrapin  bridge 
is  superior, — it  combines  more  of  the  beautiful 
and  sublime. 

In  ascending  the  bank  from  Table  Rock  to  the 
Hotels,  you  will  have  a  fine  and  extensive  view  of 
the  surrounding  country,  and  can  visit  the  burning 
spring,  Chippewa,  Lundy's  Lane,  Brock's  Monu- 


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ment,  the  Welland  Canal,  &c.  as  you  may  have 
leisure  or  inclination. 

If  you  arrive  first  on  the  Canada  side,  proceed 
directly  to  Table  Rock,  and  when  satisfied  with 
looking  at  the  amazing  scene  there,  both  from 
above  and  below,  follow  the  path  to  the  Ferry  and 
cross  to  the  other  side,  and  then  visit  Goat  Island 
as  directed  above. 

To  those  who  wish  the  services  of  a  living 
guide  in  their  rambles  and  excursions,  Mr.  S. 
Hooker,  on  the  American  side,  offers  himself;  his 
office  is  near  the  Eajjle  Hotel.  From  a  residence 
of  twenty  years  at  the  Falls,  he  is  enabled  to  con- 
duct visiters  to  all  the  objects  of  interest  in  the 
vicinity,  and  to  give  them  much  valuable  informa- 
tion. 


.^. 


1%  I  AGAR  A    RIVER,    ITS    SOIJRCESj 

ISIiAXBS,  &€. 

Niagara  River,  upon  which  the  Falls  are  situ- 
ated, receives  the  waters  of  all  the  upper  lakes, 
as  Erie,  St.  Clair,  Huron,  Michigan,  Superior, 
and  a  number  of  smaller  ones.  The  most  distant 
soince   of  the  Niagara  is  probably  the  river  St. 


15 


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Louis,  which  rises  1250  miles  north  west  of  the 
Falls  and  155  miles  west  of  Lake  Superior ;  it  is 
1200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  ocean,  and  falls 
551  feet  before  it  reaches  the  lake. 

Lake  Superior  is  459  miles  long  by  109  wide, 
and  900  feet  deep :  it  is  discharged  in^o  Lake 
Huron  by  the  Strait  St.  Mary,  60  miles  in  length, 
making  a  descent  of  45  feet.  This  lake  receives 
the  waters  of  about  forty  rivers.  Lake  Michigan 
is  300  miles  by  50  and  about  900  feet  deep,  and 
empties  into  Huron  through  the  straits  of  Macki- 
nac 40  miles  in  length.  Connected  with  Michi- 
gan, on  the  south-west  side,  is  Green  Bay,  100 
miles  in  length  by  about  20  in  width.  Lake  Hu- 
ron is  218  miles  by  180,  and  900  feet  deep,  and 
is  discharged  into  Lake  Erie  through  the  rivers 
St.  Clair  and  Detroit,  90  miles,  making  a  descent 
of  31  feet.  Lake  Erie  is  290  miles  by  63,  and 
120  feet  deep,  and  564  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea.  It  empties  itself  through  Niagara  river,  35 
miles  in  length,  into  Lake  Ontario,  making  a  de- 
scent of  334  feet,  viz  :  from  the  lake  to  Schlosser, 
12  feet;  thence  down  the  rapids,  52  feet;  the 
perpendicular  Falls,  164  feet;  from  the  Falls  to 
Lewiston,  104  feet ;  and  thence  to  Lake  Ontario, 
two  feet.  .      , 


16 


i\ 


Lake  Ontario  is  180  miles  by  31,  and  600  feet 
deep,  and  discharges  itself  through  the  river  St. 
Lawrence  into  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  710  miles 
distant. 

The  four  inland  seas  above  the  Falls — as  the 
great  Lakes  may  properly  be  called — with  the 
hundreds  of  rivers,  great  and  small,  that  flow  into 
them,  cover  a  surface  of  150,000  square  miles, 
and  contain  nearly  half  the  fresh  w^ater  on  the 
surface  of  the  globe.  From  these  sources  of  the 
Niagara,  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  im- 
mense quantity  of  water  that  is  constantly  pouring 
over  the  Falls. 

Niagara  River,  as  it  flows  from  Lake  Erie,  is 

about  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  from 

twenty  to  forty  feet  deep  ;  for  three  miles  it  has  a 

rapid   current,   and   then  it   becomes   calm   and 

smooth  till  within  one  mile  of  the  Falls. 

*        "So  calm  *, — the  waters  scarcely  seem  to  stray, 
And  yet  they  glide  like  happiness  away." 

Five  miles  from  the  lake  the  river  begins  to  ex- 
pand till  it  becomes  more  than  eight  miles  in 
width,  and  embraces  before  it  reaches  the  Falls, 
about  forty  islands.  Of  these  the  largest  arc 
Grand  and  Navy.  The  latter,  belonging  to  Ca- 
nada, contains  304  acres  of  good  land,  and  termi- 


fa 


m 


^'. 


"% 


17 


im 


■4 


nates  near  Chippewa  Point.  Grand  Island  coni- 
mences  five  miles  from  the  lake,  is  twelve  miles 
in  length,  measured  round  its  edge,  and  from  three 
to  six  in  width,  and  terminates  three  miles  above 
the  Falls,  containing  17,384  acres.  The  land  is 
well  timbered,  rich,  and  productive.  As  the 
deepest  channel  of  the  river,  forming  the  boundary 
line,  runs  on  the  west  side,  this  island,  until  re- 
cently, has  belonged  to  the  state  of  New- York  ; 
but  in  the  year  1833,  a  company  from  Boston 
purchased  nearly  the  whole  of  the  island,  and 
have  recently  erected  upon  it,  near  the  site  of  the 
famous  Jewish  city,  Ararat,  projected  in  1825  by 
MajorNoah  of  New- York,  a  istean^^vist  mill,  and 
a  saw  mill  150  feet  square,  containing  15  sett  of 
saws.  This  mill  is  intended  to  saw  ship  stuff  of 
every  description,  from  20  to  70  feet  in  length 
and  W'ill  probably  be  one  of  the  most  extentuve 
establishments  of  its  kind  in  America.  The  name 
of  their  village  is  "  White  Haven,"  situated  nearly 
opposite  Tonawanta,  where  the  Erie  Canal  locks 
into  the  Niagara  river.  It  is  approached  by  a 
ferry  across  the  river,  here  100  rods  wide,  and 
has  increased,  since  Nov.  1833,  from  one  solitary 
family  to  more  than  fifty ;  it  has  also  many  work- 
shops, a  store,  a  school  house,  a  commodious 


'(^'.i  ,<H8i-*1viniMljS!^«rs.'' '/"=»?'''-^" 


I  r 


J I 


'v  h 


I 


18 

wharf  several  hundred  feet  long,  and  a  spacious 
dock  made  of  piles,  for  storing  and  securing 
floating  timber.  '  '  "''-''^  ' 

It  is  understood  that  they  intend  to  employ  con- 
stantly several  hundreds  of  men  with  a  competent 
number  of  teams,  for  the  purpose  of  preparing  and 
sending  to  the  eastern  cities  a  large  quantity  of 
ship  timber.  In  the  spring  of  1834,  the  timber 
for  three  large  merchant  ships  of  400,  450,  and 
700  tons  burthen,  prepared,  and  every  piece  fitted 
to  its  place  during  the  previous  winter,  was  sent 
by  canal  boats  to  Albany,  and  thence  by  sloops  to 
Boston.      ^ '■'-'■  ■-'  "    '■     ■■    ^^v' ---■'^■■^-         ^^ 

One  thing  fonnected  with  the  founding  of  this 
village  and  the  progress  of  the  Company's  busi- 
ness on  this  island,  deserves  special  commenda- 
tion :  no  ardent  spirits  of  any  kind  have  been  used, 
and  no  man  who  drinks  spirits  can  find  employ- 
ment there  even  for  a  single  day.  Much  success 
to  their  enterprise.  -v. 

In  July,  1759,  during  the  old  French  war,  two 
large  French  vessels,  in  danger  of  being  taken  by 
the  British,  were  burnt  and  sunk  in  what  is  called 
Burnt  Ship  Bay,  near  the  lower  end  of  this  island. 
Some  parts  of  them  are  still  visible ;  and  some 
years  since,  a  party  of  men,  by  raking  the  river  at 


•.r 


19 


;10US 

iring 

con- 
Btent 
rand 
ity  of 
mber 
,  and 
fitted 
sent 
)ps  to 

f  this 
busi- 
nda- 
used, 
ploy- 
iccess 

two 
jnby 
jailed 
iland. 
(some 
rQY  at 


that  place,  secured  a  number  of   tons  of   ifon. 

Among  the  other  islands  in  this  river,  the  fol* 
lowing  are  perhaps  most  deserving  of  notice,  viz  : 
Bird  Island,  between  Buffalo  and  Fort  Erie ; 
Squaw  Island,  containing  131  acres,  opposite 
Black  Rock ;  Strawberry  Islands,  containing 
about  100  acres;  Beaver  Island  of  30  acres; 
Rattlesnake  Island  of  48  acres  ;  Tonawanta  Isl- 
and, opposite  the  creek  and  village  of  that  name, 
containing  69  acres ;  Cayuga  Island  near  the 
New-York  shore,  four  miles  above  the  Falls,  con- 
taining about  100  acres  ;  Buckhorn  Island,  near 
the  lower  end  of  Grand  and  near  Navy  Island, 
containing  146  acres ;  and  a  number  of  smaller 
islands,  in  and  immediately  above  the  rapids,  be- 
sides Goat  Island,  &c.  hereafter  to  be  described. 

One  feature  of  the  Niagara  river  somewhat 
peculiar  is,  that  neither  the  snows  of  winter  nor 
the  evaporation  of  summer,  neither  rains  nor 
drought,  materially  affect  it ;  its  waters  flow  on, 
full  and  clear,  perpetually  the  same ;  except,  as 
has  long  been  observed,  they  have  a  small  gradual 
rise  and  fall  about  once  in  seven  years.  The 
cause  of  this  is  unknown,  but  is  undoubtedly  to 
be  sought  in  something  affecting  the  upper  lakes. 
Indeed,  it  has  often  been  asserted  by  travelers, 


•;"<', y"    '  -H"."!!— o.'yy 


-mfr-- 


20 


i 


t' 


I 


?' 
f 


i: 


that  these  lakes  h«'ive  septennial  fluxes  and  re* 
fluxes  :  it  is  also  asserted  by  some>  that  they  have 
small  diurnal  tides.  This,  however,  may  reason- 
ably  be  doubted.  -         :     > 


It.  ./^    ^  ■    , 


iK.- 


.!*_. 


■  '    t 


.::.:.,"'     TUB    RAPIIJi^^       "■'".". 

■'■■  ■:■  ^"n'■•  •  ^i^--'r-:^:'ri'^y 

I  must  here  apprise  the  reader,  that  it  were 
vain  to  attempt  a  graphic  description  of  the  Falls 
and  surrounding  scenery ;  for  they  so  immeasu* 
rably  exceed  every  thing  of  the  kind  elsewhere 
seen  or  even  imagined,  that  no  power  of  language 
can  give  any  adequate  idea  of  them  to  those  who 
have  not  been  present  to  hear  and  see  for  them- 
selves. Capt.  Basil  Hall  remarks,  "  All  parts  of 
the  Niagara  are  on  a  scale  which  baffles  every 
attempt  of  the  imagination,  and  it  were  ridiculous 
therefore  to  think  of  describing  it ;  the  ordinary 
means  of  description,  I  mean  analogy,  and  direct 
comparison,  with  things  which  are  more  acces- 
sible, fail  entirely  in  the  case  of  that  amazing 
cataract,  which  is  altogether  unique." 

The  scenes  which  are  sketched  in  the  follow- 
ing pages,  may  be  considered,  therefore,  only  as 
a  very  faint  outline,  or  shadow,  of  the  reality. 


m 


i 

v 


21 


d  re* 

have 

!a3on- 


X  were 
3  Falls 
[iieasu- 
B  where 
nguage 
se  who 
thein- 
arts  of 
every 
iculous 
rdinary 
direct 
acces- 
mazing 

follow- 
jonly  as 

ity. 


I 


m 


Below  the  termiiuitioii  of  Grand  and  Navy  isl- 
ands, the  river  is  compressed  to  the  width  of  tw"o 
and  a  half  miles ;  arul,  pressing  forward  with 
•accelerated  motion,  it  commences  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  above  the  Fulls  a  rapid  descent, 
miking  within  tbat  distance  a  slope  or  succession 
oW'hutes^  amounting  to  fifty -two  feet  on  the  Ame- 
rican side,  and  fit^tv-seven  on  the  other.  The 
tremendous  and  beautiful  rapids  thus  formed, 
constitute  a  very  important  part  of  the  grand  and 
unparalleled  curiosities  of  this  river.  Were  they 
in  any  other  place,  they  would  of  themselves  be 
considered  as  a  scene  of  great  beauty  and  sub- 
limity, equalled  only  by  the  ocean  when  lashed 
into  foam  and  fury  by  the  angry  tempest.  Many 
visiters  express  themselves  more  delighted,  and 
unexpectedly  filled  with  wonder,  at  seeing  the 
Rapids,  than  the  Falls  themselves. 

*'  Through  sparkling  spray  in  thundering  clash, 

The  lightnings  of  the  water  flash, 

In  awful  whiteness  o*er  the  shore. 

That  shines  and  shakes  beneath  the  roar." — Byron. 

Two  miles  above  the  Falls,  in  approaching  from 

Buffalo,  you  come  in  sight  of  the  white-crested 

breakers   more  than  a  mile  in  width,   dashing, 

foaming,  and  tossing  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  above 

3 


'«*<teU«U-i^Ti',«u 


linn  i»  ifj^yi,  yniimjini  .i,t^,,imiff) 


"••(eir 


^wif'l";^'»^^>*^>**<w« 


; 


•i,f    ^  i- 


i   i-f 


22 

the  main  current ;  and  at  the  same  time  hear  a 
low,  monotonous,  tremendous  roar ;  and  as  you 
approach  nearer,  feel  a  tremulous  motion  of  the 
earth.  The  distance  at  which  this  roar  can  be 
heard,  varies,  with  the  state  of  the  atmosphere, 
ordinarily  from  five  to  twenty  miles,  though  it  is 
sometimes  distinctly  heard  at  Toronto,  fifty  miles 
distant.  And  yet,  in  the  village  near  the  Falls,  it 
is  scarcely  heard  at  all.  The  mist,  arising  like 
curling  smoke  and  separating  as  it  rises  into 
masses  of  fantastic  clouds,  is  seen  at  the  distance 
of  from  three  to  iJCty  miles.  This  distance  de- 
pends upon  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  the  height 
of  the  sun,  and  the  force  and  direction  of  the  wind. 
This  mist  sometimes  rises  in  immense  masses, 
and  sometimes  in  a  pyramidal  shape  to  a  very 
great  height,  and  is  an  object  of  great  curiosity, 
especially  in  the  morning  soon  after  sun-rise.  It 
then  sparkles  like  diamonds,  and  becomes  illumi* 
nated  with  the  most  brilliant  prismatic  colors. 

**  Niagara!  Niagara!  I  hear 
Thy  tumbling  waters.     And  I  3ee  thee  rear 
Thy  thundering  sceptre  to  the  clouded  skies; 
I  see  it  wave — I  hear  the  ocean  rise, 
And  roll  obedient  to  thv  call.     I  hear 
The  tempest- hymning  of  thy  floods  in  fear;   " 
The  quaking  mountains  and  the  nodding  ti  ccs — 


M 


m 


t 


ffe 


23 


ear  a 
s  you 
)f  the 
an  be 
>herei 
I  it  is 
miles 
alls,  it 
s:  like 
3   into 
stance 
ce  de- 
height 
wind. 
asses, 
a  very 
iosity, 
e.     It 
llumi- 
s. 


The  reeling  birds — and  the  careering  breeze — 
The  tottering  hills,  unsteadied  in  thy  roar; 
Niagara!  as  thy  dark  watei-s  pour, 
One  everlasting  earthquake  rocks  thy  lofty  shore.** 

From  Table  Rock,  you  have  an  extensive  and 
picturesque  view  of  the  rapids  ;  but  they  are  seen 
to  much  better  advantage  from  the  shore  half  a 
mile  above,  and  especially  from  the  different  sides 
of  Goat  Island.  From  the  south-west  corner  of 
this  island,  just  above  the  Moss  islands,  you  have 
by  far  the  best  view  that  can  be  taken  from  any 
place.  There  is,  too,  an  amazing  rush  of  water 
between  the  Moss  islands,  the  force  and  sublimity 
of  which  may  be  conceived  but  not  described. 
Reader,  go  there,  and  you  will  bo  fixed  for  a  time 
in  mute  astonishment.  . 


GOAT^  OR   IRIS  ISIiAIVD. 

Goat  Island  is  so  called  from  the  circumstance, 
that  about  the  year  1770,  Mr.  Steadman,  resident 
at  Schlosser,  contrived  by  some  means  to  put  a 
few  goats  upon  the  island  ;  but  its  more  appropri- 
8^te  and  adopted  name  is  Iris  Island.  It  commen- 
ces near  the  head  of  the  rapids  almost  in  the  mid- 


,4tm»''f'>^"ffr^^f^.  «•  •*»-•*•* 


r.i— -feV  .-'^'y.'V*"" 


24 


^1 


'•I     'f 


*  i 


die  of  the  river,  and  extends  to  the  precipice,  di- 
viding the  Falls  into  two  sheets.  It  is  half  a  mile 
in  length,  and  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  width,  and 
contains  seventy-five  acres  of  rich  and  heavy  tim- 
bered land.  Situated  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids 
and  surrounded  by  them  on  three  sides,  this  isl- 
and is  one  of  the  most  beautiful,  fascinating  and 
romantic  places  in  the  world  ;  it  affords  a  delight- 
ful retreat  for  "  the  lunatic,  the  lover,  and  the 
poet,"  to  indulge  in  their  meditations.  Fanned 
by  gentle  breezes,  thickly  and  delightfully  shaded, 
free  from  noisome  insects,  encircled  by  a  neat 
gravel  walk,  and  presenting  to  the  visiter  a  great 
variety  of  views  of  the  Falls  and  rapids,  he  feels 
a  reluctance  on  leaving  it,  and  is  wont  to  exclaim 
with  Montgomery, 

"  Tf  God  hath  made  this  world  so  fair, 

Where  sin  and  death  abound  ; 
How  beautiful,  beyond  compare, 

Will  Paradise  be  found!*' 

or  with  Eve  in  the  lancjuaore  of  Milton, 

"  Must  I  thus  leave  thee,  Paradise  ? 

These  happy  walks  and  shades, 

Fit  haunt  of  gods?'*  &c. 

Abou^two  thirds  of^his  island  are  still  covered 
with  tall  trees,  many  of  which  are  clothed  with  a 


"^5a 


25 


e,  di- 
imile 
,  and 

r  tiltl- 

apids 
s  isl- 
g  and 
ilight- 
id  the 
anned 
laded, 
a  neat 
,  great 
5  feels 
tclaim 


i 


fvered 
with  a 


tnagnificent  drapery  of  ivy  and  other  creeping 
plants,  and  many  have  been  killed  by  reason  of 
the  countless  names  that  have  been  cut  into  their 
bark.  So  strong  is  the  desire  of  man  for  immor- 
tality, that  few  can  resist  the  temptation  to  leave 
some  memorial  of  their  visit  to  the  Falls.  The 
earliest  genuine  date  of  any  name  yet  found,  is  in 
the  year  1769,  though  names  have  been  cut  with- 
in a  few  years  and  dated  back  as  early  as  1745  ; 
but  on  the  rochs  near  the  Falls  on  the  American 
side,  there  are  names  chiseled  out  and  dated  1711, 
1726,  1745,  &c.  On  Goat  Island,  a  number  of 
human  skeletons  have,  within  a  ^e\y  years,  been 
dug  up  ;  supposed  to  be  the  remains  of  Indians 
buried  in  a  former  age,  and  many  more  are  doubt- 
less now  resting  there  in  undisturbed  repose. — 
There  may  they  rest,  in  nature's  solitude,  till  the 
Great  Spirit  calls  them  hence.  On  this  island  is 
found  a  very  great  variety  of  wild  plants,  shrubs 
and  flowers  ;  nearly  two  hundred  different  species, 
some  of  them  very  rare,  have  already  been  disco- 
vered. Of  the  Tillium  Grandijlora,  sixteen  va- 
rieties are  found  here.  The  seeds  of  plants  and 
flowers,  from  the  shores  of  all  the  upper  lakes  and 
rivers,  have  probably  been  washed  upon  thie  isl- 
and.    Some  years  since,  n  numl)er  of  deer  were 

3* 


«1 


...^■■iMm.      B^i=;^K- 


26 


I 


r 


i  M 


put  upon  this  island,  which  soon  became  quite 
tame ;  but  visiters,  in  order  to  see  them  jump, 
would  occasionally  frighten  them,when  they  would 
immediately  betake  themselves  to  the  rapids,  and 
thus  were  carried  over  the  Falls,  until  all  were  fi- 
nally destroyed. 

When  the  present  proprietor  shall  have  comple- 
ted the  spacious  garden  recently  laid  out,  in  which 
he  designs  te  cultivate  all  the  fruits  that  will  grow 
in  this  mild  and  genial  climate,  and  shall  have 
finished  the  many  other  improvements  which  he 
has  projected,  no  other  place,  perhaps,  in  the 
world,  will  present  attractions  equal  to  those  of 
Goat  Island.  The  approach  to  it  is  from  the 
American  side  by  means  of  a  bridge  of  the  most 
difficult  and  hazardous  construction,  which  ex- 
tends from  the  shore  28  rods  to  Bath  Island,  and 
thence  16  rods  farther  to  Goat  Island. 

There  are  many  other  beautiful  islands  situ- 
ated among  the  rapids  of  this  river,  a  num- 
ber of  which,  as  Bath,  Ship,  Brig,  Moss,  Luna, 
&c.  are  connected  with  Goat  Island  by  bridges, 
and  afford  the  most  charming  and  impressive 
views  of  the  surrounding  scenery.  On  Bath  Isl- 
and, which  is  24  rods  in  length,  containing  about 
two  acres,  is  the  Toll  House,  kept  by  Mr.  A.  B. 


27 


quite 
ump, 
^ould 
,  and 
re  fi- 

mple- 
kvhich 

grow 

have 
ch  he 
in  the 
Dse  of 
m  the 
e  most 
ch  ex- 
id,  and 

3  situ- 
num- 
,  Luna, 
bridges, 
^ressive 
ath  Isl- 
g  about 
.A.  B. 


4,:. 


Jacobs,  who  furnishes  visiters  uith  warm  and  cold 
Baths  at  any  hour,  and  at  all  seasons  of  the  year. 
Let  it  be  remembered,  that 


•*  Even  from  the  body's  purity,  the  mind 
Receives  a  secret,  sympathetic  aid." 


j> 


He  also  keeps  for  sale  a  variety  of  elegant  ar- 
ticles of  Indian  manufacture,  choice  specimens 
of  the  minerals  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  a  plenti- 
ful supply  of  refreshments.  He  is  withal  very 
accommodating  to  visiters,  and  ready  to  accom- 
pany them  to  the  various  objects  of  interest,  or  to 
give  them  any  information  they  may  need  in  re- 
gard to  the  Falls  or  Islands. 

On  this  island  is  situated  Porter  &  Clark's  ex- 
tensive Paper  Mill,  three  stories  high,  in  which 
they  manufacture  yearly  10,000  reams  of  paper  of 
various  qualities  and  descriptions. 

Luna  Island,  about  30  yards  in  width,  stands 
directly  on  the  precipice  near  Goat  Island,  and  di- 
vides the  stream,  a  part  of  which  forms  the  most 
splendid  cascade,  perhaps  in  the  world.  This  is 
about  twenty-two  yards  in  width,  and  is  sometimes 
called  the  "Centre  Fall,"  to  distinguish  it  from 
the  other  two  mam  sheets.  Approaching  this  isl- 
and from  the  foot  of  what  is  called,  from  the  shape 
of  the  path,  the  "  Hog's  Back,"   visiters   have, 


'  f 


Bih«i.«ffef ij^rriintii'iiir— i'i^"r'  •• 


m 


28 

from  the  north-west  corner,  a  much  better  view  of 
the  American  Fall  than  can  be  taken  from  any 
other  place.  This  fall,  like  the  other,  has  evident- 
ly changed  its  shape  within  a  few  years,  and  has 
now  nearly  as  much  of  a  resemblance  to  a  horse- 
shoe as  the  other. 

There  are  ten  other  islands  in  the  rapids  besides 
those  above  mentioned,  containing  perhaps  from 
one-fourth  to  an  acre  each,  to  all  or  any  of  which 
probably,  bridges  might  be  constructed. 


THE  FAIiliS — TERRAPIIV  BRIDGE 

AIVD  TO^\  ER. 

The  broad  river,  as  it  comes  thundering*  and 
foaming  down  the  declivity  of  the  rapids,  at  length 
leaps  the  cataract,  three-fourths  of  a  mile  in  width, 
and  falls,  as  it  were,  to  the  central  caves  of  the 
earth.  The  mind,  filled  with  amazement,  recoils 
at  the  spectacle,  and  loses  for  a  moment  its  equi- 
librium. The  trembhng  of  the  earth,  the  mighty 
rush  and  conflict  and  deafening  roar  of  the  waters, 
the  clouds  of  mist  sparkling  with  rainbows,  produce 
an  effect  upon  the  beholder  often  quite  overpower- 
ir  T ;  and  it  is  only  after  the  scene  has  become 


29 


iew  of 
n  any 
^ident- 
nd  has 
horse- 

resides 
s  from 
whic  h 


DGE 

dZ  and 
length 
width, 
of  the 
recoils 
3  eqni- 
nighty 
vaters, 
reduce 
:)Owei' 
ecome 


somewhat  familiar  to  the  eye,  the  ear,  and  the 
imagination,  that  its  real  grandeur  and  sublimity 
is  properly  realized  and  felt. 

The  water  on  the  American  side,  as  ascertained 
by  frequent   measurement,  falls  164  feet,  and  on 
the  Canada  side  158  feet.     The  fall  on  the  Cana- 
'  da  side,  embracing  much  the  largest  channel  of  the 
river,  is  called,  from  the  shape  of  the  precipice, 
the  "  Crescent  or  Horse-Shoe  Fall,"  and  near  to 
this  a  bridge,  called  the  Terrapin  bridge,  has  been 
constructed  300  feet  in  length  from  Goat  Island, 
and  projecting  ten  feet  over  the  Falls.     Near  the 
termination  of  this  bridge,  in  the  water  and  on  the 
very  verge  of  the  precipice,  a  stone  tower,  forty- 
five  feet  high,  with  winding  steps  to  the  top,  was 
reected  in  the  year  1833,  from  which,  or  from  the 
end  of  the  bridge,  the  effect  of  the  Falls  upon  the 
beholder  is  most  awfully  sublime  and  utterly  inde- 
scribable.    The  sublime  arising  from  obscurity  is 
here  experienced  in  its  greatest  force.     The  eye, 
unable  to  discover  the  mysterious  phenomena  at 
the  bottom  of  the  Falls,  or  even  to  penetrate  the 
mist  that  seems  to  hang  as  a  veil  over  the  ama- 
zing  and  terrific  scene,  gives  place  to  the  imagina- 
tion, and  the  mind  is  instictively  elevated  and 
filled  with  majestic  dread.     Here  is 


f 


t  i 


i 


^ 


;t 


■  a 


ii 


::r 


I 


30 


**  All  that  expands  the  spirit,  yet  appals." — Byron. 

"  It  seems  to  be  the  good  pleasure  of  God,  that 
men  shall  learn  his  Omnipotence  by  evidence  ad- 
dressed to  the  senses  as  well  as  the  understan- 
ding, and  that  there  shall  be  on  earth  continual  il- 
lustrations of  his  mighty  power ;  of  creation  we  are 
ascertained  by  faith,  not  by  sight ;  the  heavenly 
bodies,  though  vast,  arc  distant,  and  roll  silently 
in  their  courses.  But  the  earth  by  its  quakings, 
the  volcano  by  its  fires,  the  ocean  by  its  mountain 
waves,  and  the  floods  of  Niagara  by  the  majesty 
of  their  power  and  ceaseless  thunderings,  proclaim 
to  the  eye,  and  to  the  ear,  and  to  the  heart,  the 
omnipotence  of  God.  From  these  far  distant 
sources  and  multitudinous  dispersions,  he  called 
them  into  the  capacious  reservoirs  of  the  North, 
and  bid  them  hasten  their  accumulating  tide  to 
this  scene  of  wonders,  and  for  ages  the  obedient 
waters  have  rolled  and  thundered  his  praise.  . 

In  beholding  this  deluge  of  created  omnipo- 
tence, the  thought,  how  irresistible  is  the  displea- 
sure of  God,  rushes  upon  the  soul.  It  requires 
but  a  little  aid  of  the  imagination  to  behold  in  this 
ceaseless  flow  of  waters,  the  stream  of  his  indig- 
nation, which  shall  beat  upon  the  wicked  in  the 
gulf  below  the  eternal  pit ;  and  in  the  cloud  of  ex- 


31 


tron. 

»d,  that 
ice  ad- 
erstan- 
nual  11- 
we  are 
javenly 
silently 
akings, 
)untain 
najesty 
•oclairn 
art,  the 
distant 

called 
North, 
tide  to 
)edient 
I.  . 

mnipo- 
isplea- 
jquires 

in  this 
1  indig- 

in  the 

of  ex- 


halation, the  smoke  of  their  torment,  which  as- 
cendeth  up  for  ever  and  ever.  And  nothing  '  'it 
the  wailing  of  unearthly  voices  seems  necessary  to 
make  one  feel  that  hell  and  destruction  are  unco- 
vered before  him.  With  these  associations,  all  is 
dark,  terrific  and  dreadful,  till  from  the  midst  of 
this  darkness  and  these  mighty  thunderings,  the 
bow,  brilliant  type  of  mercy,  arises,  and  spreads  its 
broad  arch  over  the  agitated  waters,  proclaiming 
that  the  Omnipotence  which  rolls  the  stream  is  as- 
sociated with  mercy  as  well  as  with  justice."* 

"And  such  was  that  rainbow,  that  beautiful  one, 
.    Whose  arch  was  refraction,  its  key-stone— the  sun; 
A  pavilion  it  seemed  with  a  Deity  graced. 
And  justice  and  mercy  met  there  and  embraced." 

Campbell. 
The  solar  and  lunar  bows,  the  river  above  and 
below,  and  indeed  the  whole  scenery  of  the  Falls 
and  lapids,  appear  to  better  advantage  from  this 
point  than  from  any  other  ;  and  no  visiter  on  ei- 
ther side  should  presume  to  leave  the  Falls  with- 
out visiting  this  tower  and  bridge.  From  the  top 
of  the  tower  especially,  he  will  realize  the  force 
and  beauty  of  the  following  description,  which, 
with  the  change  of  a  single  word,  applies  admira- 
bly to  this  matchless  scene  : 

*  Christian  Spectator  for  1331. 


I« 


.jumv  i'» 


'^':'  > 


32 


fi 


Mi 


**The  roar  of  waters  !     From  the  headlong  height 
JViagara  cleaves  the  wave-worn  precipice  ; 
The  fall  of  waters !  rapid  as  the  light, 
The  flashing  mass  foams  shaking  the  abyss  ; 
The  hell  of  waters!  where  thev  howl  and  hiss, 
And  boil  in  endless  torture  ;  while  the  sweat    . 
Of  their  great  agony,  wrung  out  from  this 
Their  Phlegethon,  curls  round  the  rocks  of  jet 
That  gird  the  gulf  around,  in  pitiless  horror  set, 

And  mounts  in  spray  the  skies,  and  thence  again 
Returns  in  an  unceasing  sho\yer,  which  round 
With  its  unemptied  cloud  of  gentle  rain, 
Is  an  eternal  April  to  the  ground. 
Making  it  all  one  emerald  ; — how  profound  * 

The  gulf ! — and  how  the  giant  element  a      -^   •< 

From  rock  to  rock  leaps  with  delirious  bound ,         • 
Crushing  the  cliffs,  which  downward  worn  and  rent, 
With  his  fierce  footsteps,  yield  in  chasms  a  feaifnl  vent. 

"...  •  !  ,  -  i!.        V.  -     ,■'        -  ■■,  -      ■   ^      ■  : 

♦  ♦    .  *  *  .  .  >l».s..  * 

*  *  *  ♦  Lookback! 

Lo!  where  it  comes  like  an  eternity. 
As  if  to  sweep  down  all  things  in  its  track. 
Charming  the  eye  with  dread, — a  matchless  cataract. 
Horribly  beautiful !  but  on  the  verge, 
From  side  to  side,  beneath  the  glittering  morn, 
An  Iris  sits,  amidst  the  infernal  surge, 
Like  Hope  upon  a  death-bed,  and,  unworn 
Its  steady  dies,  while  all  around  is  torn 
By  the  distracted  waters,  bears  serene  *        ^'\ 

Its  brilliant  hues  with  all  their  beams  unshorn, 


AM 


i;  t 


33 


it 


a 


[  rent, 
j1  vent. 

* 


aract, 


Resembling,  'mid  the  torture  of  the  scene, 
Love  watching  Madness  with  unalterable  mien." 

"       Byron. 

The  lunar  bow,  seen  at  night  in  the  time  of  full 

moon,  appears   like  a  brightly  illuminated  arch 

reaching  from  side  to  side,   and  is  an  object  of 

great  attraction, — especially  as  the  world  presents 

only  a  few  other  places  where  such  a  bow  is  ever 

seen, 

**Hung  on  the  curling  mist,  the  moonlight  bow 
Arches  the  perilous  river." — Longfellow. 

Goat  Island,  in  a  moonlight  night,  is  the  resort 
of  great  multitudes,  where  they  find  themselves  in- 
troduced to  a  scene  of  unrivalled  beauty  and  mag- 
nificence. The  rapids  at  such  a  time  sparkle 
with  phosphoric  splendor  and  nature  around  wears 
an  irresistible  charm  of  loveliness.     There  is 

**A  silver  light,  which  hallowing  tree  and  tower, 
-  Sheds  beauty  and  deep  softness  o*er  the  whole." 

Byron. 

The  writer  once  had  the  pleasure  of  joining  a 
lovely  couple  in  marriage  about  11  o'clock  on  one 
of  the  brightest  nights  he  has  ever  known,  in  full 
view  of  this  enchanting  scene,  and  then  of  taking 
a  romantic  excursion  with  the  party  around  the 
island.  This  was  poetry  indeed  ;  it  wa'^-  one  of 
those  bright  and  verdant  oases  sometimes  met 

4 


riiMH 


'm\i:-i*^^. 


34 


with  ill  the  journey  of  life.     May  all  their  days  be 
equally  bright  and  their  rambles  equally  pleasant. 


I-,  * 

(  :;-  ■ 
'  t'. 


I       lb 


BIBDIiE    STAIRCASE— ^OliUS* 

CAVEj  &C. 

At  the  lower  end  of  Goat  Island,  about  one* 
third  across  it,  a  staircase,  erected  in  the  year 
1829,  at  the  expense  of  Nicholas  Biddle,  Esq.  of 
Philadelphia,  gives  visiters  an  opportunity  of  de- 
scending below  the  bank  and  of  passing  a  consi- 
derable distance  behind  the  two  main  sheets  of 
water.  The  descent  from  the  top  of  the  island  to 
the  margin  of  the  river  is  185  ieei.  A  common 
flight  of  steps  leads  down  40  feet  to  the  perpendi- 
cular spiral  steps,  90  in  number,  which  are  enclo- 
sed in  a  building  in  the  shape  of  a  hexagon  resting 
on  a  firm  foundation  at  the  bottom.  From  the  foot 
of  the  building  there  are  three  paths  leading  to  the 
most  important  points  of  observation,  one  of  which 
leads  to  the  river  below,  80  feet,  where  visiters  will 
find  one  of  the  finest  fishing  places  in  this  part  of 
the  world.  All  the  varieties  of  fish  existing  in 
Lake  Ontario  are  found  here,  among  which  are 
sturgeon,  pike,  pickerel,  black  and  white  bass. 


v^i 


ys  be 
Lsant. 


one- 
I  year 
3q.  of 
)f  de- 
consi- 
lets  of 
ind  to 
mmon 
)endi- 
enclo- 
esting 
le  foot 
to  the 
which 
rs  will 
art  of 
ting  in 
;h  are 

bass, 


35 


herrings,  cat-fish,  eels,  &c.  Here  was  Sam 
Patch's  jumping  place.  The  path  at  the  left  of 
the  staircase  leads  to  the  great  Crescent  Fall, 
where,  when  the  wind  blows  up  the  river,  a  safe 
and  delightful  passage  is  opened  behind  the  sheet 
of  water. 

The  path  at  the  right  leads  to  a  magnificent 
Cave,  appropriately  named  when  it  was  first  dis- 
covered, some  twenty-five  years  since,  -Siolus' 
Cave,  or  Cave  of  the  Winds.  This  cave  is  about 
120  feet  across,  60  feet  wide  and  100  feet  high ; 
it  is  situated  directly  behind  the  Centre  Fall,  which 
at  the  bottom  is  more  than  100  feet  wide,  and  vi- 
siters can  safely  pass  into  and  entirely  through  the 
cave  behind  the  sheet  of  water.  Beyond  this 
cave  at  the  foot  of  Luna  Island,  there  is  an  open 
space  where  persons  may  amuse  themselves  at 
leisure  upon  the  rocks,  over  which  the  floods  are 
pouring,  and  then  venture  in  as  far  as  they  please 
behind  the  whole  American  Fall. 

The  writer  of  these  pages  first  conceived  the 
idea  of  effecting  an  entrance  into  this  cave,  July 
14,  1834,  while  passing  in  front  of  the  American 
Fall  in  a  boat,  and  the  next  day  it  was  effected  for 
the  first  time  by  passing  round  the  outside  of  the 
fall  and  descending  from  the  foot  of  Luna  Island  ; 


f'»/?  ? 


i 


m 


ne 


I 


-.  I-^ 


ff 


at  his  special  request.  Judge  Porter,  the  proprie- 
tor, has  engaged  to  have  the  rocks  excavated,  and 
a  flight  ot"  steps  constructed  so  as  to  admit  a  safe 
descent  and  entrance  from  the  end  of  the  path. — 
Accompanying  the  above  idea,  was  a  project  of 
passing  behind  the  whole  American  Fall  56  rods, 
and  coming  out  near  the  ferry.  This  passage, 
though  not  yet  effected,  is  believed  to  be  possible  ; 
for  the  opening  between  the  sheet  of  water  as  it 
falls,  and  the  rock  behind  is  from  15  to  50  feet 
wide,  and  there  are  rocks  to  walk  upon  through 
the  whole  distance.  If  there  be  any  insurmounta- 
ble obstacle,  it  will  probably  be  found  in  the  tre- 
mendous wind  and  spray  occasioned  by  the  falling 
flood.  A  passage  into  the  cave  was  at  first  con- 
sidered a  great  exploit,  but  a  passage  behind  the 
whole  sheet  would  be  inconceivably  greater.  The 
cave  itself  is  the  ne  plus  ultra  of  wonders,  a  visit 
to  which  no  person  ought  to  omit.  Visiters  who 
wish  to  paf^s  through  the  cave  and  behind  the  im- 
mense sheet  of  water,  can  be  furnished  with  suita- 
ble dresses  by  calling  on  Mr.  Jacobs,  at  the  Toll 
House  on  Bath  Island.  But  ladies  and  gentle- 
men can  very  often,  when  the  wind  blows  down 
the  river,  pass  a  considerable  distance  behind  the 
sheet  of  water  within  the  cave  without  getting  wet 


I 


37 


3prie- 
1,  and 
1  safe 
ith. — 
ict   of 
rods, 
3sage, 
sible  ; 
•  as  it 
Ofeet 
rough 
Dunta- 
e  tre- 
falling 
t  con- 
id  the 
The 
1  visit 
s  who 

le  iin- 
suita- 

bToll 

entle- 

down 

d  the 

g  wet 


at  all.  The  view  presented  to  a  person  while  in 
the  cave,  in  connexion  with  the  tremendous  and 
astounding  roar  of  waters,  which,  owing  to  the 
echoes  or  reverberations,  is  apparently  an  hun- 
dred times  greater  here  than  any  where  else,  will 
enable  him  to  appreciate  the  following  beautiful 
and  graphic  lines  of  Brainerd, — especially  as  there 
is  always  in  the  afternoon  when  the  sun  shines,  a 
bright  rain-bow  visible  directly  within  the  cave 
and  behind  the  sheet  of  water. 

"The  thoughts  are  strange  that  crowd  into  my  brain, 
While  I  look  upwards  to  thee.     It  would  seem, 
As  if  God  poured  thee  from  his  hollow  hand. 
And  hung  his  bow  upon  thy  awful  front, 
And  spoke  in  that  loud  voice,  which  seemed  to  him 
Who  dwelt  in  Patmos  for  his  Saviour's  sake, 
*The  sound  of  many  waters;'  and  had  bade 
Thy  flood  to  chronicle  the  ages  back, 
And  notch  His  centuries  in  the  eternal  rocks. 

Deep  calleth  unto  deep.     And  what  are  we, 
That  hear  the  question  of  that  voice  sublime? 
Oh!  what  are  all  the  notes  that  ever  rung 
From  war's  vain  trumpet  by  thy  thundering  side  ? 
Yea,  what  is  all  the  riot  man  can  make 
In  his  short  life,  to  thy  unceasing  roar! 
And  yet,  bold  babbler,  what  art  thoU  to  Him 
Who  drowned  a  world,  and  heaped  the  wateriJ  far 
Above  its  loftiest  mountains? — a  light  wave, 
That  brealcs  and  whispers  of  its  Maker's  might.*' 

4* 


w 


i 
•I 


H 


38 

How  little  and  iiisi^^nificant  do  the  efforts  of 
man  appear,  when  measured  by  this  exhibition  of 
Omnipotence  !  The  earthquake,  the  volcano,  the 
wide-spread  conflagration,  the  shock  of  contending 
armies  are  sublime  and  terrific  spectacles,  though 
short  ia  their  continuance  and  limited  in  their  ef- 
fects ;  but  here,  ever  since  the  flood  probably,  the 
deafening  and  incessant  roar  of  the  mightiest  ca- 
taract on  the  globe  has  called  upon  the  children 
of  men  to  fall  down  and  adore  their  Maker. 


m 


THE  FEBKY. 

There  is  another  stair-case  leading  down  the 
bank  about  six  rods  below  the  Falls,  where  visit- 
ers will  find  a  safe  ferry  to  the  Canada  side,  and 
have  an  opportunity  of  viewing  a  scene  of  sur- 
passing grandeur.  The  deep-green  glassy  river 
beneath,  the  awful  precipice  of  rocks,  and  the 
mighty  floods  rolling  and  tumbling  from  the 
heights  above,  and  the  singularly  wild,  romantic, 
and  variegated  scenery  around,  fill  the  mind  of  the 
beholder  with  sensations  not  to  be  described 
Here  one  may  perceive  the  propriety  and  beauty 
of  the  figure  representing  Him,  who  is  the  **  Rock 


39 


of  ages,"  as  "  the  shadow  of  a  great  rock  in  a 
weary  land,"  to  those  who  fly  to  him  for  refuge. 

**  While  viewing  thee 

I  think  how  grand  and  beautiful  is  God, 
When  man  has  not  intruded  on  his  works, 
But  left  his  bright  creation  unimpaired. 

Blessed  scenes ! 

*        *        *        it  is  no  mortal  touch 

That  sharpened  thy  rough  brow,  or  fringed  thy  skirts 

With  coarse  luxuriance; — 'twas  the  lightning's  force   ' 

Dashed  its  s-trong  flash  across  thee,  and  did  point 

The  crag;  or,  with  his  stormy  thunderbolt, 

The  Almighty  Architect  himself  disjoined 

Yon  rock;  then  flung  it  down  where  now"  it  hangs, 

And  said,  do  thou  lie  there." — C.  Wolfe. 

The  Ferrymen,  S.  L.  Ware,  Esq.  on  the 
American,  and  Mr.  J.  Shultersburgh,  on  the  Ca- 
nada side,  are  both  very  civil  and  accommodating, 
well  acquainted  with  their  business,  and  able  to 
give  much  information  to  visiters.  Whenever 
required,  they  take  parties  out  on  pleasure  or 
fishing  excursions,  and  thus  enable  them  to  take 
a  more  extensive  view  of  the   gorgeous   river 

scenery.  The  construction  of  a  carriage  road  is 
now  in  progress  down  these  perpendicular  banks, 
so  as  to  have  u  ferry  for  teams  and  carriages  ;  and 


'fri 


f  jK 


r 


H 


40 


>vhen  this  is  completed,  it  must  become  a  great 
and  important  thoroughfare  for  travelers* 


H 


CANADA  VIEWS. 

Directly  opposite  the  Falls  on  the  Canada  side, 
an  enterprising  Company,  having  purchased  the 
grounds  formerly  owned  by  Mr.  Forsyth,  have 
projected  and  laid  out  what  they  call  **  The  City 
of  the  Falls,"  and  are  now  making  very  conside- 
rable improvements.  They  hope  soon  to  have 
schools,  churches,  libraries,  ball  and  promenade 
rooms,  baths,  public  gardens,  and^  indeed,  every 
thing  considered  necessary  to  an  elegant  and 
fashionable  city.  The  lots  and  streets  are  laid 
out  with  much  judgment  and  taste  and  are  to  be 
distributed  by  lottery.  The  city  has  an  imposing 
and  attractive  appearance  on  paper,  but  how  it 
will  appear  when  actually  built  upon  the  solid 
earth,  other  generations  must  tell* 

The  table  land  on  the  river's  bank  below  the 
Falls  and  opposite  the  Ferry,  owned  by  Captain 
Creighton,  has  also  been  surveyed  into  lots  for  a 
village,  to  be  called  "Clifton  ;"  and  here,  directly 
at  the  top  of  the  ferry  road,  Mr.  Crysler  is  build- 


41 


ing  a  splendid  Hotel  for  the  accommodation  of 
visiters,  to  be  completed  by  the  first  of  June  1835. 
It  will  contain  upwards  of  sixty  rooms,  and  accom- 
modate from  sixty  to  one  hundred  guests.  This 
is  a  delightful  site  for  a  village,  and  will  in  a  few 
years,  probably,  be  the  most  central  place  of  re- 
sort on  that  side  of  the  river.  The  following 
stanza  of  Byron  is  beautifully  descriptive  of  this 
place. 

"  From  thy  shady  brow, 

Thou  small,  but  favored  spot  of  holy  ground! 
Where'er  we  gaze,  around,  above,  below, 

What  rainbow  tints,  what  magic  charms  are  found! 
Rock,  river,  forest,  mountain,  all  abound. 

And  bluest  skies  that  harmonize  the  whole; 
Beneath,  the  distant  torrent's  rushing  sound 

Tells  where  the  volumed  cataract  doth  roll        [soul." 
Between  those  hanging  rocks,  that  shock  yet  please  the 

In  ascending  the  high  bank,  the  visiter  is  pre- 
sented with  some  delightful  views  of  the  Falls 
and  rapids  and  of  the  surrounding  country.  Two 
spacious  Hotels  stand  prominent  on  the  bank,  one 
of  which,  the  Pavilion,  is  much  frequented,  and 
can  accommodate  nearly  an  hundred  guests. — 
It  has  an  imposing  appearance,  and  from  the 
observatory  on  its  roof,  visiters  have  an  extensive 
view  of  the  country  around.     Strangers  who  have 


i'fli 


if 


■n : 


'    ! 


'4 


42 


never  visited  the  Falls,  have  an  idea  that  the 
surrounding  country  must  be  mountainous,  Hke 
that  in  the  vicinity  of  most  other  falls ;  but  the 
general  aspect  of  the  country  here  for  a  great  ex- 
tent on  both  sides  of  the  river,  above  and  below, 
is  that  of  an  almost  perfect  level,  and  nothing 
indicates  the  existence  of  the  river  or  the  Falls 
except  the  constantly  ascending  and  floating  mist, 
and  a  kind  of  subterranean  thundering  roar.  Be- 
low the  Falls  the  earth  and  rocks  appear  as  though 
they  had  been  suddenly  rent  asunder  and  sepa- 
rated one-fourth  of  a  mile  apart,  in  order,  by  the 
perpendicular  chasm  thus  made,  to  form  a  chan- 
nel for  the  river.  The  corresponding  portions  of 
rock  are  as  regular  in  the  succession  of  their 
strata,  as  would  be  the  leaves  and  cover  of  a 
book  if  they  were  bisected  and  placed  opposite  to 
each  other.  The  whole  country  in  Canada  be- 
tween the  two  lakes,  except  a  narrow  strip  border- 
ing upon  Lake  Ontario,  is  generally  level,  rich,  and 
productive,  and  is  becoming  quite  populous.  In 
visiting  the  Canada  side,  you  can  cross  the  river 
at  Black  Rock,  Lewiston,  or  at  the  Falls ;  and 
can  always  have  carriages  on  that  side  to  trans- 
port you  whither  you  choose.  No  one  ought  to 
fail  of  visiting  the  Canada  side,  as  this  grand  aqd 


n 


43 


Unparalleled  scene  of  nature's  wonders,  the  fame 
whereof  is  spread  over  the  world,  ought  to  be 
viewed  and  contemplated  from  every  position. 
The  views  from  that  side  are  by  many  considered 
the  best;  but  let  every  one  decide  for  himself 
from  personal  observation. 


:i 


m 


WEIiliAiVD  CANAli. 

Eight  miles  west  from  the  Falls  is  the  Welland 
Canal,  connecting  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  with 
Lake  Ontario,  and  affording  a  passage  for  sloops 
and  schooners  of  125  tons  burthen.  This  Canal 
commences  at  Port  Maitland  near  the  mouth  of 
Grand  River  on  Lake  Erie,  forty-eight  miles  west 
of  Buffalo,  runs  in  a  straight  line  across  Main- 
fleet  Marsh,  crosses  the  Chippewa  river  by  means 
of  an  aqueduct,  and  enters  Lake  Ontario  at  the 
mouth  of  the  twelve  mile  creek.  It  is  42  miles 
in  lengthy  56  feet  in  width,  and  varies  from  8  1-2 
to  16  feet  in  depth.  The  whole  descent  from 
one  lake  to  the  other,  334  feet,  is  accomplished 
by  means  of  37  locks.     At  the  deep-cut,  on  what 


ili' 


■:i  , 


44 


is  called  the  mountain  ridge,  the  excavation  is  45 
feet  in  depth;  and  1,477,700  cubic  feet  of  earth, 
and  1,890,000  cubic  feet  of  rock  were  removed. 
The  locks  here  are  22  by  100  feet,  and  west  of 
this  ridge  they  are  45  by  125  feet.  The  Canal 
was  commenced  in  the  year  1824,  and  completed 
in  five  years,  and  cost  over  $1,000,000.  A  large 
part  of  the  stock  is  owned  by  individuals  in  tho 
state  of  New-York.  The  Company  own  all  the 
land  along  the  line  of  the  Canal,  including  the 
hydraulic  privileges  ;  and  another  tract,  contain- 
ing about  16,000  acres,  has  been  granted  to  them 
by  the  British  Government. 


BROCK'S    3rOj\UMEJVT. 


Jr  fi 


Six  miles  and  a  half  north  from  the  Falls,  upon 
Queenston  heights,  is  General  Brock's  Monu- 
ment, constructed  of  free  stone  126  feet  high,  and 
admitting  an  ascent  to  the  top  by  a  flight  of  170 
winding  steps.  From  this  eminence,  the  country 
around,  including  the  picturesque  lake  scenery, 
may  be  seen  for  fifty  miles. 


45 

One  mile  south  from  the  Falls^  near  the  rapids^ 
is  the  Burning  Spring.  TLs  is  in  a  state  of 
constant  ebullition,  and  from  it  issues  a  stream  of 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas^  which  quickly  ignites 
on  the  touch  of  a  candle,  and  burns  with  a  brilliant 
iiame.  The  Spring  is  enclosed  in  a  barrel,  which 
collects  the  gas  and  lets  it  out  through  a  tube  in- 
serted at  the  top.  This  gas  might,  without  doubt, 
be  communicated  by  pipes  to  neighboring  build- 
ings, and  substituted  for  candles  and  lamps.  The 
keeper  of  the  Spring,  Mr.  J.  Conklin,  expects 
a  small  fee  from  visiters  for  his  trouble.  There 
are  strong  indications  at  this  Spring  of  a  bed  of 
coal  near,  but  no  effort  has  yet  been  made  to 
procure  it* 


M 


STAIR  CASE. 


At  the  Falls,  near  Table  Rock,  is  a  spiral  Stair 
Case,  constructed  for  the  purpose  of  letting  peo- 
ple descend  and  pass  behind  the  sheet  of  water. 


^,!i! 


m"-vi'''^fV^^ 


■|l,' 


m 


46 

Mr.  Starkey,  who  keeps  a  house  of  refreshmetit 
and  a  cabinet  of  minerals  here,  is  very  accommo- 
dating to  visiters,  and  when  desired,  furnishes 
them  with  a  dress  and  guide  to  facilitate  theif 
passage  behind  the  Falls. 


MtJSEUM* 


y    «i 


I     I       :' 


A  few  rods  from  this  Staircase  is  Mr.  Barnett'si 
Museum  of  natural  and  artificial  curiosities  ; — art 
establishment  well  worthy  of  patronage.  The 
rooms  are  arranged  very  tastefully  so  as  to  repre- 
sent a  forest  scene,  and  contain  upwards  of  700 
stuffed  animals  of  various  kinds  and  descriptions. 
There  are  bipeds  and  quadrupeds ;  birds,  fishes, 
insects,  shells  and  minerals ;  all  calculated  to 
delight  the  eye,  improve  the  understanding,  and 
mend  the  heart.  Of  the  birds,  beasts,  fishes^ 
and  insects,  several  hundred  species  were  caught 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  Falls.  The  noblest  eagles 
of  the  land  delight  to  hover  around  the  Falls ; 
and  here  they  are  frequently  killed,  stuffed,  and 
offered  for  sale. 


47 


SUMMER  AND  WINTER  SCENERY. 

The  surrounding  scenery  on  both  sides  of  the 
river  is  in  good  keeping  with  the  unrivalled  mag- 
nificence of  the  Falls.  It  is  just  what  it  should 
be, — grand,  striking  and  unique.  By  most  visi- 
ters it  is  seen  only  in  summer.  But  in  the  winter 
it  is  also  inimitably  and  indescribably  beautiful. — 
The  trees  and  shrubbery  on  Goat  and  other  isl- 
ands and  on  the  banks  of  the  river  near  the  Falls, 
are  covered  with  transparent  sleet,  presenting  an 
appearance  of  "  icy  brilliants,"  or  rather  of  mil- 
lions of  glittering  chandeliers  of  all  sizes  and  de- 
scriptions, and  giving  one  a  most  vivid  idea  of  fai- 
ry land, 

"For  every  shrub  and  every  blade  of  grass. 
And  every  pointed  thorn  seems^vvrought  in  glass, 
The  frighted  birds  the  rattling  bi-anches  shun. 
Which  wave  and  glitter  in  the  distant  sun." 

Phillips. 

The  scene  presents  a  splendid  counterpart  to 
Goldsmith's  description  of  the  subterranean  grot- 
tos of  Paros  and  Antiparos.  The  mist  from  the 
Falls  freezes  upon  the  trees  so  gradually  and  to 
such  thickness,  that  it  often  bears  a  most  exact  re- 
semblance to  Alabaster ;  and  this,  set  off  by  the 
dazzling  colors  of  the  rainbows  that  arch  the  ri- 


■I 


1 


■   '  .1 


48 


i! 


ver  from  twenty  different  points,  seems,  by  natu- 
ral association,  to  raise  the  imagination  to  that 
world,  where  the  streets  are  of  pure  gold,  the  gates 
of  pearl,  and  night  is  unknown. 

"Look,  the  massy  trunks 
Are  cased  in  the  pure  crystal  ;  branch  and  twig 
Shine  in  the  lucid  covering  ;  each  light  rod. 
Nodding  and  twinkling  in  the  stirring  breeze. 
Is  studded  with  its  trembling  water-drops, 
Still  streaming,  as  they  move,  with  colored  light. 
But  round  the  parent  stem,  the  long,  low  boughs 
Bend  in  a  glittering  ring,  and  arbors  hide 
The  glassy  floor.     0 !  you  might  deem  the  spot 
The  spacious  cavern  of  some  virgin  mine, 
Deep  in  the  womb  of  earth,  where  the  gems  grow  ; 
And  diamonds  put  forth  radiant  rods,  and  bud 
With  amethyst  and  topaz,  and  the  place 
Lit  up  most  royally  with  the  pure  beam 
That  dwells  in  then*  ;  or,  haply  the  vast  hall 
Of  fairy  p:.Iace,  that  outlasts  the  night, 
And  fades  not  in  the  glory  of  the  sun  ; 
Where  crystal  columns  send  forth  slender  shafts. 
And  crossing  arches,  and  fantastic  aisles 
Wind  from  the  sight  in  brightness,  and  are  lost 
Among  the  crowied  Pinal's.'* 

The  winter  scenery  about  the  Falls  is  peculiar, 
a  sight  of  which  is  worth  a  journey  of  one  thou- 
sand miles.  Myriads  of  wild  ducks  and  geese 
spend  the  day  in  and  above  the  rapids,  and  regu- 


.x' 


49 

larly  take  their  departi  re  for  Lake  Ontario  every 
night  before  dark;  though  some  are  often  found  in 
the  morning  with  a  broken  leg  or  wing,  and  some- 
times dead,  in  the  river  below  the  Falls.  This 
generally  happens  after  a  very  dark  or  foggy  night ; 
and  it  is  supposed  that,  as  they  always  have  their 
heads  up  stream,  while  in  the  water,  they  are  car- 
ried down  insensibly  by  the  rapids  till  they  find 
themselves  going  over  the  precipice,  and  then,  in 
attempting  to  fly,  they  dive  into  the  sheet  of  water, 
and  are  buried  for  a  time  under  the  Falls  or  upon 
the  rocks.  • 

Dead  fish,  too,  of  almost  all  sizes  and  descrip- 
tions, weighing  from  one  to  seventy  pounds,  are 
found  floating  in  the  eddies  below  the  Falls,  form- 
ing a  dainty  repast  for  gulls,  loons,  hawks,  and 
eagles.  The  splendid  gyrations  of  the  gulls,  and 
their  fearless  approaches,  enveloped  in  clouds  of 
mist,  up  to  the  boiling  cauldron  directly  under  the 
Falls,  attract  much  attention.  But  the  eagle, 
fierce,  daring,  contemplative,  and  tyrannical,  takes 
his  stand  upon  the  point  of  some  projecting  rock, 
or  the  dry  limb  of  a  gigantic  tree,  and  watches 
with  excited  interest  the  movements  of  the  whole 
feathered  tribe  below.  Standing  there  in  lordly 
pride  and  dignity,  in.an  instant  his  eye  kindles  and 

5* 


I! 


M 


•Ml 


60 


his  ardor  rises  as  he  sees  the  fish-hawk  emerge 
from  the  deep,  screaming  with  exultation  at  his 
success.  He  darts  forth  like  lightning  and  gives 
furious  chase.  The  hawk,  perceiving  his  danger, 
utters  a  scream  of  despair  and  drops  his  fish ;  and 
the  eagle  instantly  seizes  the  fish  in  the  air,  and 
bears  his  ill-gotten  booty  .to  his  lofty  eyry. 

Sometimes  during  a  part  of  the  winter,  the  ice 
is  driven  by  the  wind  from  Lake  Erie  and  poured 
over  the  Falk  in  such  immense  quantities,  as  to 
fill  and  block  up  the  river  between  the  banks,  for 
a  mile  or  more,  tg  the  depth  of  from  thirty  to  fifty 
feet,  so  that  people  cross  the  ice  to  Canada  on 
foot  for  w  eeks  together.  The  river  itself  is  never 
frozen  over,  either  above  or  below  the  Falls,  but 
it  affords  an  outlet  for  vast  quantities  of  ice  from 
the  upper  lakes. 


RIVEH  BELiO^V  THE   FAIiliS. 


^1    . 


l4) 


The  river  at  the  Falls  is  a  little  over  three- 
fourths  of  a  mile  in  width,  but  below  it  is  imme- 
diately compressed  into  a  narrow  channel  of  less 
than  one-fourth  of  a  mile  in  width,  and  its  depth, 
as  ascertained  by  sounding,  is  about  250  feet.    Its 


61 


color  is  deep-green,  and  sometimes  blue ;  occa- 
sioned, no  doubt,  by  reflection  from  tbe  sky. 
This  channel  being  between  perpendicular  banks 
from  170  to  370  feet  high,  is  comparatively 
smooth  for  two  miles,  and  then  runs  with  ama- 
zing velocity  to  Lewiston ;  and,  what  is  some- 
what remarkable,  while  the  river  makes  a  constant 
descent,  the  banks  have  a  gradual  ascent  for  six 
miles ;  so  that  from  the  top  of  the  bank  to  the 
water,  at  Brock's  Monument  near  Queenston,  is 
370  feet;  and  the  heights  there  are  38  feet  higher 
than  Lake  Erie,  and  25  feet  higher  than  the  land 
at  Schlosser.  Whether  the  bed  of  the  river  here 
was  once  a  natural  ravine,  or  was  formed  by  an 
earthquake,  or  worn  away  by  the  continued  and 
violent  action  of  the  water  falling  upon  the  rocks — 
thus  carrying  the  Falls  back  from  Queenston  to 
their  present  situation,  it  would  be  difficult  to  de- 
termine with  certainty. 

From  descriptions  of  the  Falls  written  nearly 
two  hundred  years  ago,  we  learn  that,  though 
theii  shape  has  been  somewhat  altered  since  they 
then  occupied  the  place  which  they  hold  now,  and 
exhibited  the  same  wonderful  phenomena.  When 
and  by  whom  among  the  whites  they  were  first 
discovered,  the  writer  has  never  yet  been  able  to 


I 


;--y^t<Mlll»Mll>i 


52 


•^ 


f' 


\^  ?^ 


ascertain.  Tradition  ascribes  their  discovery  to 
two  missionaries,  who  were  on  an  exploring  tour 
to  this  part  of  the  country  in  an  age  anterior  to 
any  written  account  extant.  Father  Hennepin,* 
who  visited  this  place  in  December  1678,  thus 
describes  the  Falls: — "Betwixt  the  Lake  Ontario 
and  Erie,  there  is  a  vast  and  prodigious  cadence 
of  water  which  falls  down  after  a  surprising  and 
astonishing  manner,  insomuch  that  the  universe 
does  not  afford  its  parallel.  'Tis  true,  Italy  and 
Suedeland  boast  of  some  such  things,  but  we  may 
"well  say  that  they  are  but  sorry  patterns,  when 
compared  with  this  of  which  we  now  speak.  At 
the  foot  of  this  horrible  precipice,  we  meet  with 
the  river  Niagara,  which  is  not  above  a  quarter 
of  a  league  broad,  but  is  wonderfully  deep  in  some 
places.     It  is  so  rapid  above  this  descent,  that  it 


*  The  following  is  the  title  of  his  book  :  "  A  new  discovery  of  a  vast 
country  in  America,  extending  above  four  thousand  miles  between  New 
France  and  New  Mexico,  with  a  description  of  the  great  Lakes,  Cata* 
racts,  Rivers,  Plants  and  Animals;  also,  the  manners,  customs  and  lan- 
guages of  the  several  native  Indians,  and  tlic  advantages  of  commerce 
with  those  different  nations,  with  a  continuation,  giving  an  account  of  the 
attempts  of  the  Sieur  De  la  Salle  upon  the  mines  of  the  St.  Barbe,  8ic. 
The  taking  of  Quebec  by  the  English;  with  the  advantages  of  a  shorter 
cut  to  China  and  Jap  n.  Both  parts  illustrate*!  with  maps  and  figures 
and  dedicated  to  his  Majesty  K.  William.  By  L.  Hennepin,  now  resi- 
dent in  Holland.  To  which  is  added,  several  new  discoveries  in  North 
America,  not  published  in  the  French  edition.    London,  1699." 


53 


violently  hurries  down  the  wild  beasts  while  en- 
deavoring to  pass  it  to  feed  on  the  other  side,  they 
not  being  able  to  withstand  the  force  of  its  cur- 
rent, which  inevitably  casts  them  headlong  above 
six  hundred  foot  high. 

"This  wonderful  downfal  is  compounded  of  two 
great  cross-streams  of  water,  and  two  falls,  with 
an  isle  sloping  along  the  middle  of  it.  The  wa- 
ters which  fall  from  this  horrible  precipice,  do 
foam  and  boil  after  the  most  hideous  manner 
imaginable,  making  an  outrageous  noise,  more 
terrible  than  that  of  thunder;  for  when  the  wind 
blows  out  iS  the  south,  their  dismal  roaring  may 
be  heard  n-    ^  than  fifteen  leagues  off. 

"  The  river  Niagara  having  thrown  itself  down 
this  incredible  precipice,  continues  its  impetuous 
course  for  two  leagues  together,  to  the  Great 
Rock  above  mentioned,  with  an  inexpressible 
rapidity;  but  having  past  that,  its  impetuosity 
relents,  gliding  along  more  gently  for  other  two 
leagues,  till  it  arrives  at  the  Lake  Ontario  or 
Frontenac." 

**  From  the  great  Fall  unto  this  Rock,  which 
is  to  tlie  west  of  the  river,  the  two  brinks  of  it  arc 
so  prodigious  high,  that  it  would  make  one  trem- 
ble to  look  steadily  upon  the  water,  rolling  along 


54 


!■;■ 


with  a  rapidity  not  to  be  imagined.  Were  it  not 
for  this  vast  Cataract,  which  interrupts  navigation, 
they  might  sail  with  barks  or  greater  vessels  more 
than  450  leagues,  crossing  the  Lake  of  Hurons, 
and  reaching  even  to  the  further  end  of  Lake 
Illinois ;  which  two  lakes  we  may  easily  say  are 
little  seas  of  fresh  water." 

"  After  these  waters  have  thus  discharged  them- 
selves into  this  dreadful  gulf  they"  continue  their 
course  "  as  far  as  the  three  Mountains  which  are 
on  the  East  of  the  River,  and  the  Great  Rock 
which  is  on  the  West,  and  lifts  itself  three  fathoms 
above  the  waters  or  thereabouts." 

The  writer,  after  considerable  inquiry  and  per- 
sonal examination,  is  unable  to  determine  what 
Father  Hennepin  means  by  the  Three  Mountains 
and  the  Great  Rock  ;  and  he  cannot  believe  that 
the  Falls  were  ever  six  hundred  feet  high,  as  is 
repeatedly  stated  in  the  book.  But  Father  Hen- 
nepin's description  which  is  too  long  to  be  insert- 
ed entire  is,  in  the  main,  remarkably  correct;  and 
establishes  the  fact,  that  in  1678,  there  were  three 
distinct  falls  as  there  are  now,  and  that  the  fall  on 
the  Canada  side  exhibited  then  somewhat  of  the 
appearance  of  a  horse-shoe.  His  description  too 
of  the  islands,  shores,  &c.  corresponds  with  their 
present  appearance. 


In  a  work  written  by  the  Chevalier  de  Tonti,^ 
who  was  of  the  party  with  Father  Hennepin,  there 
is  a  description  of  the  Falls  and  of  Niagara  River, 
corresponding  with  and  corroborating  Hennepin's, 
but  with  the  addition  of  no  important  facts. 

Bai'on  La  Hontan,|  who  visited  this  Cataract  in 
Mav  1688,  thus  describes  it :  "  As  for  the  water- 
fall  of  Niagara,  'tis  seven  or  eight  hundred  foot 
high,  and  a  half  a  league  broad.  Towards  the 
middle  of  it  we  descry  an  Island  that  leans  towards 
the  Precipice,  as  if  it  were  ready,  to  fall*  All  the 
Beasts  that  cross  the  water  within  half  a  quarter 
of  a  league  above  this  unfortunate  Island,  are 
sucked  in  by  the  force  of  the  stream.  And  the 
Beasts  and  Fish  that  are  thus  killed  by  the  prodi- 
gious Fall,  serve  for  food  to  fifty  Iroquese,  who 
are  settled  about  two  leagues  ofi*,  and  take  'em  out 
of  the  water  with  their  Canows.  Between  the 
surface  of  the  water  that  shelves  off  prodigiously, 
and  the  Foot  of  the  Precipice,  three  men  may 


'  t] 


♦Entitled, "Relations  de  la  Louisiana  ct  du  Fleuve  ^lississippi  Sic.  1720, 
Amsterdam,  Par  Le  Chevalier  de  Tonti,  Gouverneur  du  Fort  Saint  Lou- 
is aux  Illinois." 

fHis  book  is  entitled,  "New  Voyages  to  North  America,  Stc.  &c.  Writ- 
ten in  French  by  the  Baron  La  Houtan,  Lord  Lieutenant  of  the  French 
Colony  at  Placentia  in  New  Foundland,  at  that  time  in  England.  Done 
into  English,  tlic  second  edition— London  1735.'' 


Im 


I 


66 

Cross  in  abreast  without  any  other  damage,  thati  a 
sprinkling  of  some  few  drops  of  water,"  &c. 

In  the  philosophical  transactions  for  1722  there 
is  a  description  of  the  Falls  given  by  Monsieur 
Borassau^  who  had  visited  them  at  se^  en  different 
times.  He  says  that  the  Governor  of  Canada  had, 
on  the  previous  year,  "  ordered  his  own  son  with 
three  other  officers  to  survey  Niagara,  and  take 
the  exact  height  of  the  Cataract,  which  they  ac- 
cordingly did  with  a  stone  of  half  a  hundred 
weight,  and  a  large  cod-line,  and  found  it  upon  a 
perpendicular  26  fathoms"  or  156  feet. 

These  extracts  may  not  be  considered  of  much 
value  except  by  those,  who  have  a  curiosity  to 
learn  something  about  the  Falls  as  they  appeared 
in  a  former  age. 

There  are  at  least  five  places  between  the  Falls 
and  Lewiston,  where  persons  can  descend  from 
the  top  of  the  bank  to  the  water ;  viz:  from  the 
end  of  Mr.  Childs'  and  also  Mr.  Graves'  farm,  at 
the  Whirlpool,  at  the  Devil's  Hole,  and  from  the 
end  of  Mr.  Colt's  farm.  There  are  also,  on  the 
Canada  side,  a  number  of  places  where  visiters  can 
descend  safely  to  the  water's  edge.  From  these 
places  under  the  bank  the  river  scenery  appears 
transcendantly  beautiful  and  sublime,  and  the  rap- 


I}) 


67 


ids  strike  the  beholder  with  more  amazement,  if 
possible,  than  the  Falls  themselves. 

The  top  of  the  bank  on  either  side  near  Brock's 
monument,  affords  a  delightful  and  almost  bound- 
less prospect  of  the  country  and  lake  below.  The 
unrivalled  Niagara  is  traced  to  its  outlet,  guarded 
by  two  opposite  F-  rt  and  bearing  ^'^^ops  and 
steamboats  into  the  glassy  Lake ;  while  tne  mighty 
expanse  of  plains  and  waters  presents  a  scene  so 
picturesque  and  enchanting,  that  the  traveler 
leaves  his  position  with  great  reluctance.  From 
Lewiston  to  Lake  Ontario  seven  miles,  the  river  is 
deep,  smooth,  and  navigable  for  vessels  of  every 
description ;  and  Lewiston,  being  the  head  of  nav- 
igation, is  the  principal  landing  place  for  the 
American  steam-boats  that  run  on  Lake  Ontario. 

At  the  mouth  of  the  river  on  the  American  side 
stand  the  village  of  Youngstown  and  Fort  Niaga- 
ra ;  and  on  the  Canada  side,  the  village  of  Niag- 
ara and  Fort  George. 

The  quantity  of  water  constantly  pouring  over 
the  Falls  and  passing  into  the  Lake,  is  computed 
from  probable  data  at  670,250  tons  per  minute ; 
but  Dr.  Dwight  computes  it,  from  the  depth,  width, 
and  velocity  of  the  current,  at  more  than  eighty- 
five  milhons  of  tons  per  hour ;  and  by  another 

6 


i# 


h 


It    < 


V   ' 
,1 


I  iM 


U 


bs 


Calculation,  supposing  a  swifter  current,  at  102,- 
093,750  tons  per  hour.  Darby  computes  it  at 
1,672,704,000  cubic  feet  per  hour.  These  re- 
sults are  somewhat  different,  but  the  first  is  prob- 
ably nearest  the  truth.  Dr.  Dwight  supposes  in 
one  calculation  a  current  of  five,  and  in  the  other, 
of  six  miles  per  hour,  the  least  of  which  is  un- 
doubtedly too  much. 


OBJECTS  OF   SPE€IAIi  liVTEREST, 
CURIOSITIES.  &C. 

A  number  of  these,  as  the  islands,  the  bridges, 
the  staircases,  the  burning  spring,  Brock's  monu- 
ment, the  Welland  Canal,  &c.  have  already  been 
described.  One  mile  above  the  Falls  on  the 
American  side,  is  the  site  of  old  Fort  Schlosser ; 
a  place  somewhat  distinguished  in  the  early  histo- 
ry of  this  region,  and  commanding  a  most  beauti- 
ful prospect  of  the  river  and  rapids,  of  Grand  and 
Navy  Islands,  and  of  the  village  of  Chippewa  on 
the  opposite  shore.  Nothing  remains  of  the  Fort, 
except  the  entrenchments,  and  a  few  rods  of  pave- 
ment within.  A  stockade  was  built  here  in  the 
year  1672.     Before  the  construction  of  the  Erie 


H 


59 

Canal,  all  the  business  between  the  Lakes  was  in- 
terchanged by  means  of  a  land  carriage  from  this 
place  to  Lewiston.  Half  a  mile  below  the  Falls 
under  the  bank  are  Catlin's  Caves,  a  visit  to  which 
no  traveler  will  be  likely  to  regret.  Vast  quantities 
of  calcareous  tufa  or  petrified  moss  are  found  here 
in  all  stages  of  its  petrifying  process.  On  the  oth- 
er side  nearly  opposite  is  Bender's  Cave. 


MIXEUAIi  SPPIAG. 


Two  miles  below  is  a  Mineral  Spring,  contain- 
ing sulphuric  and  muriatic  acids,  lime  and  magne- 
sia ;  and  by  the  use  of  its  waters  many  important 
cures  have  been  effected.  For  scrofulous,  rheu- 
matic, and  cutaneous  complaints  this  spring  sup- 
plies an  almost  sovereign  remedy.  From  the 
stage  road  near  the  spring,  travelers  have  a  most 
delightful  view  of  the  whole  Falls  two  miles  dis- 
tant ;  and  if  they  see  the  Falls  from  this  place 
first,  as  they  generally  do  in  coming  up  from  Lew- 
iston, the  impression  here  made  will  probably  nev- 
er  be  effaced. 


'■I'" 


■''  ■     « 


GO 


^VlIIRIiPOOIi. 

One  m''^  farther  down  leads  to  a  tremendous 
whirlpool,  resembling  very  much,  in  its  appearance 
and  gyrations,  the  celebrated  Maelstrom  on  the 
coast  of  Norway.  Logs  and  trees  are  sometimes 
whirled  around  for  days  together  in  its  outer  cir- 
cles, while  in  the  centre  they  are  drawn  down  per- 
pendicularly with  great  force,  are  soon  shot  out 
again  at  the  distance  of  many  rods,  and  occasion- 
ally thrust  into  the  channel  to  pass  down  the  river. 
The  river  here  makes  nearly  a  right  angle,  which 
occasions  the  whirlpool, — is  narrower  than  at  any 
other  place, — not  more  than  30  rods  in  width, — 
and  the  current  runs  with  such  amazing  velocity 
as  to  rise  up  in  the  middle  ten  feet  above  the  sides. 
This  has  been  ascertained  by  actual  measurment. 

**  Resistless,  roaring,  dreadful,  down  it  comes, — 
There,  gathering  triple  force,  rapid  and  deep, — 
It  boils,  and  wheels,  and  foams,  and  thunders  through." 

Thompson. 

There  is  a  path  leading  down  the  bank  to  the 
whirlpool  on  both  sides,  and,  though  somewhat 
difficult  to  descend  and  ascend,  it  is  accomplished 
almost  every  day  on  the  American  side  by  gentle- 
men and  often  by  ladies.    A  brisk  and  very  refresh- 


n 


W";   'I 


61 


ing  breeze  is  felt  there  during  the  hotest  and  stillest 
days  of  summer;  and  no  place  is  better  fitted  to 
elevate  and  expand  the  mind.  The  whirlpool  is 
)a  phenomenon  of  great  interest  as  seen  even  from 
the  top  of  the  bank,  especially  if  a  small  telescope 
be  U3ed ;  but  to  have  any  adequate  idea  of  it^ 
power  and  motions,  visiters  ought  to  descend 
to  the  water's  edge,  and  walk  some  distance  up 
the  river.  The  rapids  here  are  much  more  pow- 
erful and  terrific  than  they  are  above  the  Falls, 
and  appear  like  a  flood  of  watery  brilliants  rushing 
along. 

Having  written  thus  far,  the  writer  laid  down  his 
pen,  and  started  off  on  a  fresh  visit  to  the  whirl- 
pool ;  and  now,  having  spent  half  a  day  there  in 
mute  astonishment  and  admiration,  and  walked 
more  than  a  mile  by  the  river's  edge,  he  is  utterly 
at  a  loss  what  language  to  use  in  describing  it. 
Of  the  above  tame  and  meagre  description  he  is 
ashamed ;  and  yet  he  can  think  of  no  language, 
no  imagery,  no  comparison,  that  will  not  fall  im- 
measurably short  of  conveying  a  just  idea  of  the 
scene.  He  can  only  say  soberly  and  earnestly, 
that  no  gentleman  ought  hereafter  to  acknowledge 
that  he  had  seen  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  unless  he 

could  also  say,  he  had  seen  the  whirlpool  from  the 

6* 


111 


i 


II 


,        'f 

i  i  ■ 
I,,:. 


1-',  , 
■  ]}  ' 


''i 


n  vi 


!  ,!>:- 


.•  s'i 


?        :' 


m  "r 

\    ■     1; 


62 


water^s  edge.  A  staircase  down  the  bank  would 
be  a  great  accommodation  to  visiters,  and  it  is  to 
be  hoped  that  one  ere  long  will  be  constructed. 

About  the  year  1812,  an  incident  occurred  here 
perhaps  worth  recording.  A  party  of  men  were 
employed  in  cutting  cedar  logs  near  the  river 
above  the  whirlpool,  with  a  view  to  get  them  float- 
ed to  Lewiston.  One  man  stepping  upon  some  of 
them  that  were  rafted,  was  imperceptibly,  or  per- 
haps through  carelessness,  drawn  out  into  the  cur- 
rent, and  swiftly  carried  into  the  whirlpool.  He 
clung  to  a  log  and  was  carried  round  and  round  in 
the  capacious  basin  for  hours,  expecting  every 
moment  to  be  crushed  among  the  logs  or  thrust 
into  the  vortex,  while  his  companions  on  shore 
could  afford  him  no  relief.  At  length,  some  of 
them  ascended  the  bank,  went  to  Queenston  four 
miles,  and  procured  a  boat  to  be  drawn  up  by  a 
team.  This  was  let  down  the  bank,  and  many 
people  assembled  with  ropes,  poles,  &c.  to  render 
assistance.  After  the  boat  had  been  well  secured, 
and  some  men  had  stepped  in,  intending  to  push 
out  into  the  whirlpool,  the  man  upon  the  log,  still 
whirling  in  imminent  peril  of  his  life,  was,  by 
some  action  of  the  water,  sent  out  directly  to  the 
shore,  and  finally  saved,  without  receiving  any  aid 
from  others. 


63 

This  place  has  been  consecrated  by  some  fab- 
ulous tales  of  wonder  and  of  peril,  which  it  is  not 
necessary  here  to  repeat. 


BEVIIi^S  HOIiE. 


•'.vfi 


''^t; 

m 


s 


i 


A  mile  below  the  whirlpool  is  a  place  on  the 
American  side  called  the  ''Devil's  Hole,"  embra- 
cing about  two  acres,  cut  out  laterally  and  perpen- 
dicularly in  the  rock  by  the  side  of  the  river,  ai  d 
about  150  feet  deep.  This  name  was  probably 
given  from  that  of  the  personage  more  frequently 
invoked  in  this  region  formerly  than  any  other. 
How  this  hole  was  thus  made  it  is  difficult  to  con- 
jecture. Visiters  look  into  it  with  silent,  inexpres- 
sible amazement.  An  angle  of  this  hole  or  gulf 
comes  within  a  few  feet  of  the  stage  road,  afford- 
ing travelers  an  opportunity,  witbou'  alighting,  of 
looking  into  the  yawning  abyss.  But  they  ought 
to  alight  and  pass  to  the  farther  side  of  the  flat 
projecting  rock,  where  they  will  feel  themselves 
richly  repaid  for  their  trouble.  The  scenery  there 
presented  is  singularly  captivating  and  sublime. 


mi 


li^ 


!■»:  i^ 


k 


ft 


64 

This  place  is  distinguished  by  an  incident  that 
bccurred  about  the  year  1759.  A  company  of* 
British  soldiers,  pursued  by  the  French  and  Indi- 
ans, were  driven  off  this  rock  at  the  point  of  the 
bayonet.  All,  save  one,  instantly  perished  upon 
the  rocks  200  feet  beneath.  This  one  fell  into 
the  crotch  of  a  tree,  and  succeeded  afterwards  in 
ascending  the  bank  and  making  his  escape. 

A  man  by  the  name  of  Steadman,  who  lived  at 
Fort  Schlosser,  w  as  among  this  company  of  Brit- 
ish, but  made  his  escape  on  horse-back  just  before 
coming  to  the  bank,  though  many  balls  whizzed 
about  him  in  his  fliorht.  The  Indians  afterwards 
imagined  him  to  be  impenetrable  and  invincible, 
became  very  friendly,  and  ultimately,  in  consider- 
ation of  some  services  he  rendered  them,  gave 
him  all  the  land  included  between  Niagara  River 
and  a  straight  line  drawn  from  Gill  Creek  above 
Fort  Schlosser  to  the  Devil's  Hole,  embracing 
about  5000  acres.  The  heirs  of  Steadman,  so 
late  as  the  year  1823,  instituted  and  carried  on  a 
long  and  expensive  law-suit  against  the  State  of 
New- York  to  recover  this  land.  But  they  could 
show  no  title,  and  the  suit  resulted  in  favor  of  tho 
State  and  the  present  occupants. 


■rill 


lV 


! 


65 


^l   1 


TU8CARORA  IADIAA8. 

Eight  miles  below  the  Falls  and  three  miles 
back  from  the  river  is  the  Reservation  of  the  Tus- 
carora  Indians,  containing  two  miles  in  width  by 
four  in  length,  (about  5000  acres)  of  very  excel- 
lent land.  They  consist  of  about  three  hundred 
souls,  have  a  Presbyterian  Church  of  50  members, 
a  resident  Clergyman  and  a  School  Teacher,  and 
a  Temperance  Society  of  more  than  one  hundred 
members.  They  are  under  the  care  of  the  Amer- 
ican Board  for  Foreign  Missions.  Their  village  is 
delightfully  situated,  on  a  high  bank  commanding 
an  extensive  prospect  of  the  surrounding  country 
and  of  Lake  Ontario.  But  the  greater  part  of  the 
Indians  live  in  a  settlement  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
the  village,  and  are  not  generally  seen  by  visiters. 

These  Indians  came  from  North  Carolina  about 
the  year  1712,  and  joined  the  confederacy  of  the 
Five  Nations,  themselves  making  the  Sixth. 
They  formerly  held  a  very  valuable  mterest  in 
land  in  North  CaroHna,  but  have  recently  sold  it 
and  divided  the  proceeds  equally  among  them- 
selves. Many  of  them  are  in  very  prosperous  cir- 
cumstances ;  in  the  year  1834,  one  man  growed 
and  gathered  fil\y  acres  of  wheat. 


m 


m 


m 


'..'!. 


66 

Visiters  at  the  Falls  have  been  in  the  habit  of 
going,  sometimes  in  crowds,  to  this  village  on  ihe 
Sabbath ;  but  the  Indians  with  their  Missionary, 
have  often  expressed  their  desire  that  visiters 
would  not  interrupt  them  at  that  time.  It  is  his  im- 
pression, that  such  kind  of  visits  and  their  accom- 
paniments, and  made  too  by  such  multitudes,  have 
such  an  influence  upon  the  Indians,  as  completely 
to  counteract  his  efforts,  for  the  time  being,  in 
their  behalf;  and  he  has  therefore  adopted  the  prac- 
tice, on  such  occasions,  of  directing  his  preach- 
ing entirely  to  the  visiters.  The  Indians  com- 
plain of  being  interrupted,  crowded,  and  made  a 
gazing  stock,  and  of  having  a  constant  example  of 
Sabbath-breaking  set  before  them  and  their  chil- 
dren ;  and  that,  too,  by  those  from  whom  they  are 
taught  to  expect  better  things. 


i 


.•t- 


BATTIiES. 


In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  Falls  many  In- 
cidents have  occurred  to  impart  an  additional  in- 
terest. This  was  the  scone  of  a  number  of  bat- 
tles fought  during  the  last  war  with  Great  Britain  ; 
those  at  Fort  Frie,  Chippewa,  and  Lundy*s  Lane, 
u  ere  among  the  most  bloody  and  hard-fought,  tluit 


G7 


I 


ai'e  tecorded  in  history.  In  the  battte  near  Fof C 
Erie  there  was,  what  has  generally  been  consider- 
ed, a  Military  Chef  d'oeuvrc ;  the  Americans,  to 
the  number  of  1000  regulars  and  1000  of  the  mi- 
litia, made  a  sortie  and  took  the  British  works 
about  500  yards  from  their  li«e,  and  returned  in 
triumph.  The  battles  in  this  regioiipoccurred  in 
the  following  order  j  viz  :  at  Queenston,  Oct.  13, 
1812  ;  at  York,  April  27,  1813  ;  at  Fort  George^ 
May  27,  do  ;  at  Stoney  Creek,  June  5,  do  ;  at 
Beaver  Dams,  June  24,  do ;  Naval  Battle  on 
Lake  Erie,  Sept.  10,  do  ;  the  villages  o^  Niagara 
Falls,  Lewiston,  and  Youngstown,  burnt  Dec.  19, 
do  ;  Buffalo  and  Black  Rock  burnt  Dec.  31,  do ; 
Fort  Erie  taken  July  3,  1814;  battle  of  Chip- 
pewa, July  6,  do  ;  at  l^ridgwater  or  Lundy's  Lane, 
July  25,  do  ;  at  Fort  Eric,  Aug.  15,  and  Sept.  17^ 
1814.  The  burning  of  villages  and  plunder  of 
property  on  the  American  side,  arc  still  remem- 
bered, and  the  circumstances  detailed  with  thril- 
ling interest,  by  many  of  the  inhabitants* 


i 


•.'I 


BRIDGES. 

In  the  year  1817,  n  bridge  was  constructed  from 
the  shore  across  the  rapids  to  the  head  of  Goat 


'v 

il 


i^  1, 


■*<    ... 


ll't     ,« 


:)*-■ 


i  '1  •; 


!     I 


i  I 


^■11 


It 


68 


Island,  but  was  swept  away  by  the  ice  the  ensu- 
ing spring.  The  present  bridge  was  constructed 
in  1818,  and  is  forty-four  rods  in  length  exclusive 
of  Bath  Island.  This  bridge,  though  crossing  the 
foaming  rapids  only  sixty-four  rods  above  the 
Falls,  over  which  visiters  are  at  first  disposed  to 
walk  lightly  ^nd  with  quickened  pace,  is  perfectly 
safe  for  all  kinds  of  teams  and  carriages,  and 
seems  destined  to  stand  a  great  length  of  time. 
Multitudes  inquire,  with  wonder  and  eager  curios- 
ity, how  it  could  have  been  constructed  in  this  im- 
minently dangerous  place. 

They  shall  be  informed  ;  and  they  will  see  that, 
like  a  thousand  other  difficult  things,  it  was  easi- 
ly accomplished,  when  the  hoiv  was  ascertained. 
Two  very  long  timbers  were  thrust  out  from  the 
shore  on  an  nbntment,  having  the  forward  ends  el- 
evated a  little  above  the  rapids,  and  the  others 
firmly  secured  upon  the  bank  ;  these  were  then 
covered  with  plank  for  a  temporary  bridge.  At 
the  extremity  of  this  bridge,  very  large  stones 
were  let  down  into  the  river,  around  which  timbers 
were  sunk,  locked  together  so  as  to  form  a  frame, 
which  was  afterwards  filled  with  stone.  To  this, 
constituting  the  first  pier,  a  firm  bridge  was  then 
constructed,  and  the  temporary  bridge  shoved  for- 


69 


ward  so  as  to  build  a  second  pier  like  the  first,  and 
so  on,  till  the  whole  was  completed.  The  honor 
of  projecting  and  constructing  this  bridge  belongs 
jointly  and  equally  to  the  proprietors,  the  Hon.  Au- 
gustus and  Gen'l  Peter  B.  Porter. 

Till  the  year  1817,  there  was  no  way  of  de- 
scending or  ascending  the  bank  below  the  Falls, 
except  by  a  ladder  about  one  hundred  feet  in 
length  ;  since  then,  a  safe  and  convenient  flight  of 
stairs  has  been  built,  by  which  visiters  can  have 
an  easy  descent  to  the  ferry,  and  an  opportunity 
to  pass  a  considerable  distance  behind  the  magnifi- 
cent sheet  of  water.  Perhaps  there  is  no  place 
where  the  height  of  the  fall  is  so  impressively 
realized  as  here. 


MIlVERAIiSj  ScC. 

At  a  number  of  shops  near  the  Falls,  as  Mr* 
Jacobs*  and  Mr.  Hooker's  on  the  American  side, 
and  Mr.  Shultersburgh's,  Mr.  Barnett's  and  Mr. 
Starkey's  on  the  Canada  side,  may  be  had  rich 
specimens  of  the  mineral,  fossil,  vegetable,  and 
animal  productions  of  the  vicinity  ;  and  a  variety 
of  elegant  articles  of  Indian  manufacture,  such  as 

7 


# 


"TO 


-it 


<:)niamented  moccasins,  work-bags  and  baskets^ 
belts,  bracelets,  pin-cushions,  &c.  &c.  Among 
the  mineralogical  specimens  kept  for  sale  in  great 
abundance,  are,  transparent  crystalized  selenites ; 
snow-white  gypsum ;  calcareous^  bitter,  dog-tooth, 
and  fluor  spar  ;  crystalized  quartz  ;  petrifactions  ; 
favasites  and  other  fossils  ;  shells,  &c.  &c.  There 
are  also  some  noble  specimens  of  bald  and  grey 
Eagles,  and  other  animals^  with  which  this  regiori 
abounds.  .   -.     ,       .^.v 


n  ij 


I]!VCIDEjVT^. 

Men  have  occasionally  been  drawn  into  the  X'S.^ 
pids  with  their  boats,  and  carried  over  the  Falls  5 
but  not  a  vestige  of  them  or  their  boats  has  scarce- 
ly ever  been  found.  The  great  depth  of  the  wa- 
^  ter  below,  and  the  milky  foam  and  tumultuous  agi- 
9^  tation  occasioned  by  the  eddies,  whirlpools,  and 
counter  currents,  make  it  next  to  impossible  for 
any  thing  once  sunk  to  rise  again,  until  carried  so 
far  down  the  stream  as  to  make  fruitless  any  re- 
search* 

In  the  year  1820,  two  men,  in  a  state  of  intoxi- 
cation, fell  asleep  in  their  scow  which  was  fasten- 


-';■ 


71 


41  ■ 


ed  at  the  mouth  of  Chippewa  Creek  ;  while  there 
it  broke  away,  and  they  awoke  finding  themselves 
beyond  the  reach  of  hope,  dashing  over  the  rapids. 

In  the  year  1822,  two  others,  engaged  in  re- 
moving some  furniture  from  Grand  Island,  were 
by  some  carelessness  drawn  into  the  rapids,  and 
hurried  over  the  cataract. 

In  1825,  two  more,  in  attempting  on  the  Sab- 
bath to  smuggle  some  whiskey  across  to  Chippe- 
wa, were  hurried  into  the  rapids  and  shared  a  sim- 
ilar fate.  A  story  has  frequently  been  told  of  an 
Indian,  who  fell  asleep  in  his  canoe  some  miles 
above,  and  awoke  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids  ;  per- 
ceiving that  all  effort  to  escape  would  be  vain,  he 
turned  his  bottle  of  whiskey  down  his  throat,  and 
composedly  awaited  the  awful  plunge.  This  sto- 
ry the  vi^riter  believes  to  be  fabulous,  as  he  has 
never  been  able  to  find  any  foundation  for  it,  ex- 
cept that  it  is  a  stereotype  Indian  story,  told  as 
having  happened  at  all  the  different  Falls  in  the 
country.  r 

In  Sept.  1827,  notice  having  been  given  in  the 
newspapers  that  the  Michigan,  a  large  vessel  that 
had  run  on  Lake  Erie,  would  be  sent  over  the 
Falls,  thirty  thousand  people,  it  was  supposed,  as- 
sembled to  witness  the  novel  spectacle.    Onboard 


VM 


It,    •',•    •!:( 

■  f  -'i 


( 


Is 


W 


ii    H 


72 


of  this  vessel  were  put  two  bears,  a  buffalo,  two 
raccoons,  a  dog,  and  a  goose  ;  the  bears  leaped 
off  in  the  midst  of  the  rapids,  and  miraculously 
almost,  finally  reached  the  shore  in  safety.  The 
others  went  over  and  perished.  The  Michi- 
gan before  she  reached  the  Falls,  having  been 
considerably  broken  in  the  rapids,  sunk  to  a  level 
with  the  surface,  and  went  over  near  the  centre  of 
the  horse-shoe  fall.  The  distance  from  c  ;k  to 
keel  was  sixteen  feet ;  and  as  she  did  not  appear 
to  touch  the  bottom  for  eighty  rods  before  she  went 
over,  the  conclusion  is,  that  the  water  as  it  passes 
over  the  precipice  there  must  be  at  least  twenty 
feet  deep.  *  * 

In  Oct.  1829,  another  vessel,  the  Superior,  was 
advertised  to  be  sent  over,  which  drew  together 
about  fifteen  thousand  people.  This  vessel  lodg- 
ed in  the  rapids  and  remained  a  number  of  weeks, 
and  finally  passed  over  the  Falls  in  the  night. 

In  Aug.  1828,  a  small  sloop,  abandoned  by  the 
men  through  fright  near  the  mouth  of  Chippewa 
Creek,  was  blown  with  all  her  sails  up,  so  far 
across  the  river  as  to  come  down  on  the  Ameri- 
can side  of  Goat  Island  ;  but  was  broken  to  a  per- 
fect wreck  in  the  rapids,  so  as  to  pass  under  the 
bridge  and  over  the  Falls.  '  • 


73 


ri 


In  July  1832,  a  canal-boat  was  blown  over  from 
Chippewa,  and  lodged  iu  the  rapids  a  short  dis- 
tance above  the  bridge.  Some  men  and  one  wo- 
man were  on  board,  and  were  saved  at  most  im- 
minent peril,  and  the  boat  was  finally  secured 
and  drawn  ashore.  -^ 

The  rock  at  the  Falls  is  hard  limestone  to  the 
depth  of  about  seventy  feet,  below  which  it  is  loose 
crumbling  shale,  which  is  constantly  wearing  away 
and  leaving  a  projection  of  the  limestone. 

A  mass  of  Table  Rock,  160  feet  in  length  and 
from  30  to  40  feet  in  width,  fell  off  in  July  1818, 
with  a  tremendous  crash.  On  the  9lh  of  Dec. 
1828,  three  immense  portions  broke  from  the 
horse-shoe  fall,  causing  a  shock  like  an  earth- 
quake. Another  large  portion  fell  in  the  summer 
of  1829,  and  the  noise  it  occasioned  was  heard 
several  miles.  And  yet,  judging  from  the  pub- 
lished accounts  of  the  Falls  which  reach  back 
nearly  two  hundred  years,  there  has  been  but  very 
little  recession  of  the  Falls  within  that  period. 

In  Oct.  1829,  Sam  Patch  jumped  twice,  in  the 
presence  of  thousands  of  spectators,  from  the  top 
of  a  ladder  ninety-seven  feet  high  into  the  eddy 
below  the  Falls.  This  ladder  was  erected  direct- 
ly below  the  Biddle  staircase.     It  has  been  stated 

7* 


i 


■<!fV 


U''    1 


..  .c; 


74 

in  the  public  prints,  that  he  jumped  116  feet,  125 
feet,  &c. ;  but  those  who  made  and  erected  the 
ladder  probably  knew  best  what  was  its  height. 
Poor  Sam  afterwardo  lost  his  Hfe  by  jumping  from 
the  Falls  of  Genesee  River  at  Rochester. 

June  10th,  1834,  the  "Hermit"  was  drowned 
while  bathing  in  the  river  below  the  Falls.  The. 
following  account  of  this  singular  being  is  abridg- 
ed and  condensed  from  one  drawn  up  and  publish- 
ed soon  after  his  death. 

'*  A  young  Englishman,  named  Francis  Abbott, 
of  respectable  connexions,  either  through  misfor- 
tune or  a  morbid  state  of  mind,  which  made  him 
desire  seclusion,  took  up  his  residence  on  Goat 
Island,  and  in  the  neighborhood  of  the  Falls,  for 
two  years  ;  and  became  so  fascinated  with  the  sol- 
itude, and  infatuated  with  the  scenery,  that  no  in- 
ducement could  divert  his  thoughts,  or  draw  him 
from  the  spot,  where  he  acquired  the  name  of  the 
**  Hermit  of  Niagara  Falls." 

He  arrived  on  foot  in  June,  1829,  dressed  in  a 
loose  gown  or  cloak  of  a  chocolate  color,  carrying 
under  his  arm  a  roll  of  blankets,  a  flute,  a  port- 
folio, and  a  large  book  ;  which  constituted  the 
whole  of  his  baggage.  He  took  up  his  abode,  in 
the  fir?  t  instance,  m  the  small  inn  of  Fibenezer 


75 


i 


Kelly,  on  the  American  side,  stipulating  that  the 
room  he  occupied  should  be  exclusively  his  own, 
and  that  certain  parts  of  his  cooking  only  should 
be  done  by  his  host.  He  then  repaired  to  the  Li- 
brary, where  he  gave  his  name,  and  borrowed 
some  books  and  music  book?,  and  purchased  a 
violin ;  the  following  day  he  again  visited  the  Li- 
brary, expatiated  largely,  with  great  ase  and  abil- 
ity, on  the  beautiful  scenery  of  the  Falls,  and  de- 
clared his  intention  of  remaining  at  least  a  week ; 
for  *'  a  traveller  might  as  well,"  he  said,  "  exam- 
ine in  detail  the  various  museums  and  curiosities 
of  Paris,  as  become  acquainted  with  the  splendid 
scenery  of  Niagara  in  the  same  space  of  time." 
On  a  subsequent  visit  he  declared  his  intention  of 
staying  at  least  a  month,  perhaps  six.  Shortly 
after  he  determined  on  fixing  his  abode  on  Goat 
Island,  and  was  desirous  of  erecting  a  hut,  in 
which  he  might  live  quite  secluded  ;  the  proprie- 
tor of  the  Island  not  thinking  proper  to  grant  this 
request,  he  occupied  a  small  room  in  the  only 
house,  being  occasionally  furnished  with  bread  and 
milk  by  the  family,  but  more  generally  providing 
and  always  cooking  his  own  food.  During  the 
second  winter  of  his  seclusion,  the  family  remov- 
ed, and  to  the  few  persons  with  whom  he  held 


ill 


.■1.1'g* 


ft' 


i.  i^ 


■J  n 


76 


commiuiion,  he  expressed  great  satisfaction  at  be- 
ing able  to  live  alone. 

For  some  time  he  enjoyed  this  seclusion  ;   but 
another  family  having  entered  the  house,  he  quit- 
ted  the  Island,  and   built  himself  a   small   cot- 
tage on  the  main  shore,  about  thirty  rods  below 
the  great  Fall.     On  the  10th  of  June,  1831,  he 
was  seen  to  bathe  twice,  and  was  observed  by  the 
ferryman  to  enter  the  water  a  third  time  about  two 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon  ;  his  clothes  remaining 
for  some  hours  where  he  had  deposited  them,  an 
alarm  was  created,  and  an  ineffectual  search  was 
made  for  him.     On  the  21st,  his  body  was  taken 
out  of  the  river  at  Fort  Niagara,  and  was  decent- 
ly interred  in  the  burial  ground  near  the  Falls. 
When  his  cottage   was   examined,  his  dog  wfis 
found  guarding  the  door,  and  was  with  difficulty 
removed  ;  his  cat  occupied  his  bed ;  his  guitar, 
violin,  flutes,  music  books,  and  portfolio,  were 
scattered  around  in   confusion  ;  but  not  a  single 
written  paper  of  any  kind  was  found  (although  he 
was  known  to  compose  much)  to  throw  the  least 
light  on  this  extraoi*dinary  character.      He  was  a 
person  of  highly  cultivated  mind  and  manners,  a 
master  of  languages,  deeply  read  in  the  arts  and 
sciences  and  performed  on  various  musical  instru- 


1 


9 


i 


77 


n  at  be- 

n  ;  but 
le  quit- 
ill  cot- 
3  below 
B31,  he 

by  the 
:)ut  two 
laining 
em,  an 
ch  was 
3  taken 
lecent- 

Falls. 
g  was 
fficulty 
guitar, 
1  were 
single 
Jgh  he 
3  least 

was  a 
lers,  a 
ts  and 
nstru- 


ments  with  great  taste  ;  his  drawings  were  also 
very  spirited.  He  had  traveled  over  Europe  and 
many  parts  of  the  East,  and  possessed  great  col- 
loquial powers  when  inclined  to  be  sociable  ;  but 
at  times  he  would  desire  not  to  be  spoken  to,  and 
communicated  his  wishes  on  a  slate  ;  sometimes 
for  three  or  four  months  together  he  would  go  un- 
shaved,  with  no  covering  on  his  head,  and  his 
body  enveloped  in  a  blanket ;  shunning  all,  and 
seeking  the  deepest  solitude.  His  age  was  not 
more  than  twenty-eight,  his  person  well  made  and 
his  features  handsome. 

Many  spots  on  Goat  Island  are  consecrated  to 
his  memory  ;  at  the  upper  end  he  established  his 
walk,  which  became  hard  trod  and  well  beaten ; 
between  the  Island  and  Moss  Island  was  his  fa- 
vorite retreat  fur  bathing  ;  here  he  resorted  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  even  in  the  coldest  weather, 
when  ice  was  on  the  river ;  on  the  bridge  to  the 
Terrapin  Rocks,  it  was  his  daily  practice  to  walk 
for  hours,  from  one  extremity  to  the  other,  with  a 
quick  pace ;  sometimes  he  would  let  himself 
down  at  the  end  of  the  projecting  timber,  and 
hang  under  it  by  his  hands  and  feet  over  the  terri- 
fic precipice,  for  fifteen  minutes  at  a  time,  and 
in  the  wildest  hours  of  the  night  he  was  often 


i 


% 


.i 


r-    » 


i:  .11 


!l 


Kill 


78 


found  walking  in  the  most  dangerous  places  near 
the  Falls." 


VIIiliAGE  OF  IVIAOARA  FAI/IiS. 

The  country  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the 
Falls  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  presents  many 
powerful  attractions  for  a  permanent  residence. 
For  salubrity  of  air  and  healthfulness  of  cli- 
mate, it  yields  to  no  spot  in  the  United  States, 
Here, 

"  Nature  hatli 
The  very  soul  of  inusic  in  her  looks, 
The  sunshine  and  the  shade  of  poetry." — Dawes. 

The  latitude  here  is  43  degrees  6  minutes 
North,  and  the  longitude  2  degrees  6  minutes  West 
from  Washington.  The  winters  are  generally 
much  milder  than  in  New  England,  owing,  as  sup- 
posed, to  the  action  of  the  two  neighboring  Lakes, 
that  lie  on  either  side. 

In  a  pamphlet  published  in  London  in  the  year 
1834,  written  by  Kobert  Burford,  Esq.  who  spent 
the  summer  and  autumn  of  1832,  in  taking  a  pa- 
noramic view  of  the  Falls,  it  is  stated  that  this 
place  is,  "  without  all  question,  the  most  health-. 


I! 


t^  wnwii]iT» 


es  near 


79 

lul  of  any  on  the  continent  of  North  America* 
The  heat  of  summer  can  (here  be  borne  with 
pleasure,  while  at  the  same  time,  the  annoyance 
of  musquitos  rind  other  insects  is  unknown.  Va- 
rious are  the  conjectures  whence  arises  the  re- 
markable salubrity  of  this  region  ;  but  the  most 
natural  is,  that  the  agitation  of  the  surrounding  air 
produced  by  the  tremendous  Falls,  combines  with 
the  elevation  and  dryness  of  the  soil,  and  absence 
of  all  swamps,  to  produce  this  happy  result." 

This  accords  with  Armstrong's  description  in 
his  poem  on  health  : 

**  The  murmuring  rivulet,  and  the  hoarser  strain 
Of  waters  rushing  o'er  the  shppery  rocks, 
Will  nightly  lull  you  to  ambrosial  rest. 
To  please  the  fancy  is  no  trifling  good, 
Where  health  is  studied  ;  for  whatever  moves 
The  mind  with  calm  delight,  promotes  the  just 
And  natural  movements  of  th*  harmonious  frame. 
Besides,  the  sportive  biookfor  ever  shakes 
The  trembling  air,  that  floats  from  hill  to  hill. 
From  vale  to  mountain,  with  incessant  change 
Of  purest  element,  refreshing  still 
Your  airy  seat." 

In  the  summer  of  1832,  when  the  cholera  raged 
in  all  the  villages  around,  as  Buffalo,  Lock- 
port,  Lcwiston,  &c.  not  a  single  case  occurred 


^ii 


!  ; 

f 


M    ! 


.(   t'   f 


I 
■1^ 


'  i  i 

,          :i' 

i 

^    ). 


:[l   !' 


80 


here.  Again,  when  this  disease  visited  many  vil- 
lages in  the  vicinity  in  the  summer  of  1834,  this 
place  was  wholly  exempt. 

In  the  village  of  Niagara  Falls,  formerly  called 
Manchester,  on  the  American  side,  containing 
about  fifty  families,  there  are  two  spacious  Hotels, 
the  Eagle  and  the  Cataract,  which  will  accommo- 
date one  hundred  permanent  guests.  These  are 
both  kept  by  Gen'l  P.  Whitney,  long  and  very  fa- 
vorably known  here  in  this  business.  These 
houses  contain  one  hundred  and  fourteen  rooms, 
including  seventy-two  sleeping  rooms  ;  and  guests 
are  furnished  with  all  the  comforts  and  luxuries 
that  the  country  atlbrds.  The  Cataract  Hotel  is 
kept  more  particularly  for  private  parties,  who 
wish  for  quiet,  ample,  and  elegant  accommoda- 
tions, and  are  desirous  of  staying  a  number  of 
days.  Another  Hotel  on  a  more  splendid  scale, 
is  still  a  desideratum  here,  and  it  is  to  be  hoped 
that  some  individual  or  company  will  soon  erect 
one  commensurate  with  the  wants  of  the  place. 
This  village  also  contains  a  Presbyterian  Church, 
and  a  '*  Union  House"  for  the  use  of  all  other  de- 
nominations when  they  choose  to  occupy  it.  It 
has  aPaper-Mill,  a  Flouring  Mill,  and  a  few  Me- 
chanic's Shops  ;  and  there  is  an  opportunity  of 


|. 


81 


ny  vil- 
4,  this 

called 
taining 
lotels, 
ommo- 
ese  are 
ery  fa- 
These 
rooms, 
guests 
ixiirles 
lotel  is 
9,  who 
imoda- 
fiber  of 
scale, 
hoped 
n  erect 
place, 
hiirch, 
her  de- 
it.      It 
w  Me- 
inity  of 


using  water  here  to  a  great  extent  tor  hydrauUc 
purposes. 

Canal  boats  and  sloops  come  from  the  Erie  Ca- 
nal and  the  Lake  to  Schlosser,  a  short  distance 
above  the  Falls  ;  and  charters  have  recently  been 
granted  for  two  Rail-Roads  to  this  place, — one 
iVom  Lockport  and  the  other  from  Buffalo  ; — when 
these  go  into  operation,  the  business  of  this  place 
will  probably  be  somewhat  increased.  Stage 
Coaches  now  run  iron)  the  Falls  in  all  directions, 
and  the  mail  passes  regukrrly  twice  every  day. 
The  roads  from  Buffalo,  Lewiston,  and  Lockport 
are  now  very  good,  equal  to  any  in  this  region,  and 
ndbrd  to  travelers  many  delightful  views  of  the 
river,  the  Falls,  and  the  rapids  ; — especially,  as 
the  road  from  Buffalo  to  Lewiston  passes  very 
near  the  bank  of  the  river  the  whole  distance. 
The  steamboat  Victory  also  runs  daily  from  Buf- 
falo to  tho  landing  two  nules  above  the  i  alls,  and 
thence  across  to  Chippewa,  stopping  y,\ch  way  at 
White  Tfaven  on  Grand  Island.  This  is  a  per- 
fectly safe  and  very  pleasant  rouie  to  the  Falls. 
Another  steamboat  also  runs  dailv  from  Buffalo 
directly  to  Chippewa.  At  Lewiston,  seven  miles 
Ixilow,  steamboats  from  Lake  Ontario  are  dailv 
l)rinirini»-  and  recoiviug  passengers.      Near  Lew- 

8 


/;  ,1..;  i 

■    ;•  1  ' 

'    "  4  ' 


82 


iston  commences  the  celebrated  Ridge  Road, — 
formerly,  without  doubt,  a  sand  bar  on  the  margin 
of  Lake  Ontario, — and  runs  east  to  Rochester 
and  thence  nearly  to  Oswego,  a  distance  of  about 
140  miles.  It  runs  parallel  with  the  Lake,  from 
six  to  ten  miles  distant,  is  from  forty  to  eighty 
yards  wide,  thirty  feet  higher  than  the  contiguous 
land,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty-nine  feet  higher 
than  the  Lake.  It  is  an  excellent  road  at  all  sea- 
sons of  the  year. 


■(■  I 


i 


]VrMB£R  OF  VISITERS. 

The  number  of  visiters  at  the  Falls  has  of  late 
years  been  from  twelve  to  fifteen  thousand  annu- 
ally, and  the  number  is  every  year  increasing. 
On  one  occasion,  some  years  since,  from  thirty  to 
fifty  thousand  persons  were  supposed  to  be  here 
together,  and  on  another  fifteen  thousand.  The 
fashionable,  the  opulent,  and  the  learned,  congre- 
gate here  from  the  principal  cities  of  the  country, 
from  the  Southern  and  Western  States,  South 
America,  the  West  Indies,  the  Canadas,  all  parts 
of  Europe,  and  indeed  from  all  countries. 

On  inquiry  at  one  of  the  Hotels  on  an  ordinary 
occasion  in  the  summer,  it  was  crscertained  that 


■i",;* 


^: 


I 


i 


83 


there  were  three  foreign  Consuls,  a  Swiss  Colo- 
nel, two  of  Bonaparte's  Legion  of  Honor  ;  Ham- 
burg, Madrass,  Ceylon,  Sidney,  (N.  S.  Wales,) 
British,  Spanish,  and  Haytien  merchants,  a  fam- 
ily from  Constantinople,  gentlemen  of  various 
professions  from  Berlin,  Moscow,  Madrid,  Ma- 
deira, and  Malta  ;  five  from  Ireland,  three  from 
Scotland,  four  from  England,  and  a  multitude  from 
all  parts  of  the  United  States.  Exiled  monarchs, 
foreign  ambassadors,  whigs,  tories,  radicals,  roy- 
alists, naval  and  military  officers,  governors,  judg- 
es, lawyers,  senators,  &c.  with  a  good  proportion 
of  female  worthies,  assemble  here  to  view  these 
indescribable  works  of  God.  One  of  these  last, 
during  a  visit  here  in  the  summer  of  1834,  pen- 
ned the  following  beautiful  lines,  which  are  wor- 
thy of  being  preserved  as  a  memorial  of  female 
worth  and  genius. 

NIAGARA. 

Flow  oa  for  ever,  in  thy  glorious  robe 
Of  terror  and  of  beauty !     God  hath  set 
His  rainbow  on  thy  forehead,  and  the  cloud 
Mantled  around  thy  feet.     And  he  doth  give 
The  voice  of  thunder  power  to  speak  of  Him 
Eternally — bidding  the  lip  of  man 
Keep  silence,  and  upon  thy  rocky  altar  pour 
Incense  of  awe-struck  praise. 


>! 


11 


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84 


And  who  can  dare 
To  lift  the  insect  trump  of  earthly  Hope, 
Or  Love,  or  Sorrow, — *mid  the  peul  sublime 
Of  thy  tremendous  hymn? — E'en  Ocean  shrinks 
Back  from  thy  brotherhood,  and  his  wild  waves 
Retire  abashed. — For  he  doth  sometimes  seem 
To  sleep  like  a  spent  laborer,  and  recall 
His  wearied  billows  from  their  vexing  play, 
And  lull  them  in  a  cradle  calm : — but  thou. 
With  everlasting,  undecaying  tide, 
Dost  rest  not,  night  or  day. 

The  morning  stars. 
When  (■  st  they  sang  o'er  young  Creation's  birth, 
E  ':i(  1  tl  Y  deep  anthem — and  those  wrecking  fires 
Tiia:  nr'.jt  th'  Archangel's  signal  to  dissolve 
The  8(^1  ■  *  Earth,  shall  find  Jehovah'-,  name 
Graven,  as  with  a  thousand  diamond  spears, 
On  thine  unfathomcd  page.     Each  leafy  bough. 
That  lifts  itself  within  thy  proud  domain, 
Doth  gather  greenness  from  thy  living  spray ^ 
And  tremble  at  the  baptism.,     Lo!  yon  birds 
Do  venture  boldly  near,  batlnng  thei*-  wing 
Amid  thy  foam  and  mist. — 'Tis  meet  for  them 
To  touch  thy  garr.snt's  hem, — or  lightly  stir 
The  snowy  leaflets  of  thy  vapour  wreath, — 
Who  sport  unharmed  upon  the  fleecy  cloud. 
And  listen  at  the  echoing  g     i  o.  Heaven, 
Without  reproof.     But,  as  fo-  us, — it  see. as 
Scarce  lawful  with  our  broken  tones  to  speak 
Familiarly  of  thee.     Mcthinks,  to  tint 
Thr  glorious  features  with  our  peucirs  point, 


?i.     IB. 


85 

Or  woo  thee  to  the  tablet  of  a  song, 
Were  profanation. 

Thou  dost  make  the  soul 
A  wandering  witness  of  thy  majesty  ; 
And  while  it  rushes  with  delirious  joy 
To  tread  thy  vestibule,  dost  chain  its  step, 
And  check  its  rapture,  with  the  humbling  view 
Of  its  own  nothingness — bidding  it  stand 
In  the  dread  presence  of  th''  Invisible, 
As  if  to  answer  to  its  God  through  thee. 
Hartford,  Conn.  L.  H.  S. 

This  will  no  doubt  hereafter  become  a  place  of 
great  resort  for  invalids,  as  the  health  of  such  is 
generally  observed  to  improve  immediately  on 
coming  here.  If  any  place  in  the  country  is  pe- 
culiarly propitious  for  the  recovery  and  preserva- 
tion of  health,  this  is  the  place. 

During  the  winter  months,  though  there  are 
many  visiters,  they  are  generally  such  as  are  pass- 
ing through  the  region  on  business,  and  stay  caly 
a  short  time.  Frequently i  however,  parties  from 
Buffalo,  Lockport,  Rochester,  Canandaigua,  and 
other  places,  visit  the  Falls  by  sleighing  ;  and  af- 
ter spending  a  day  or  two,  go  away  ( nraptured  at 
the  scene. 

Many  visiters  err  greally  In  their  calculations  in 
regard  to  the  time  which  they  ought  to  spend  here. 

3* 


I 


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'1^' 


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86 

They  come  hundreds  and  sometimes  thousands 
of  miles  to  view  the  Falls,  and  then  hurry  away 
before  they  have  had  time  to  get  any  very  full  or 
distinct  impression  of  the  scene,  or  to  visit  one 
fifth  of  the  interesting  points,  from  which  the  Falls 
and  rapids  ought  to  be  viewed.  The  object  of  the 
visit  is  thus  in  a  great  measure  lost.  Visiters 
ought  to  make  their  calculations,  in  the  summer 
especially,  to  spend  at  least  a  week,  and  then  they 
will  begin  to  feel  some  regret  at  leaving.  A  dis- 
tinct and  lasting  impression  can  be  obtained  only 
by  looking  at  single  portions  and  objects  at  a  time, 
and  examining  these  frequently  and  from  different 
positions. 


f  I 


ROUTES  AND  CHARGES. 

Every  traveler  may  be  presumed  to  know  his 
way  to  the  Falls,  and  to  be  capable  of  choosing 
his  mode  of  conveyance.  The  general  routes 
are, — from  New  England,  New- York,  or  the 
Southern  cities, — by  steamboat,  and  stage,  or  by 
the  Erie  Canal.  From  Montreal,  Kingston,  To- 
ronto, Sacket's  Harbor,  or  Oswego, — by  steam- 
boat through  Lake  Ontario  to  Niagara  or  Lewis- 


1! 


A7 


ton  ;  on  which  Lake  fifteen  steamboats  are  in  op- 
eration. From  the  Southern  and  Western  States, 
—by  steamboat  through  Lake  Erie,  where  you 
will  find  more  than  thirty  in  operation.  Persons 
wishing  to  go  from  New-Orleans,  or  any  of  the 
Western  States  to  New- York  or  New  England, 
and  vice  versa,  will  find  this  route  much  the  pleas- 
antest  and  the  cheapest.  The  general  charges 
are,  from  New- York  to  Albany,  $2,00 ;  from  Al- 
bany to  Niagara  Falls  by  packet-boat  on  the  ca- 
nal, $13,00;  from  Niagara  Falls  to  Buffalo, 
$1,00;  from  Buffalo  to  Cleveland,  $6,00  ;  from 
Buffalo  to  Detroit,  $8,00;  from  Cleveland  to 
Pittsburgh,  $6,00 ;  from  Cleveland  or  Sandusky 
to  Cincinnati,  $12,00  ;  from  Pittsburgh  to  Wheel- 
ing, $3,00  ;  thence  to  Cincinnati  by  the  river, 
$10,00,  or  by  stage,  $14,00  ;  from  Cincinnati  to 
Louisville,  $4,00  ;  to  New-Orleans,  $30,00;  re- 
turn the  same  ;  from  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis, 
$16,00  ;  from  St.  Louis  to  New-Orleans,  $30,00. 
These  charges  will  doubtless  be  reduced,  as  the 
facilities  for  traveling  are  increased.  The  charges 
at  the  best  Hotels  are  generally,  60  cents  for  din- 
ner ;  37^  cents  for  breakfast  or  tea ;  and  26  cents 
for  lodging.  When  an  individual  spends  a  num- 
ber of  days  nt  a  Hotel,  the  charges  are  very  much 


mi 


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m 


less.  Charges  on  Lake  Ontario  ; — from  Lewis- 
ton  to  Toronto,  $2,00  ;  do  to  Rochester,  $4,00 ; 
do  to  Kingston,  $6,00  ;  do  to  Oswego,  $6,00  ; 
do  to  Ogdensburgh,  $8,00 ;  do  to  Montreal 
$15,00  ;  do  to  Quebec,  $20,00.  Fare  on  the 
Canal ; — in  the  packets,  four  cents  per  mile  in- 
cluding board  ;  in  the  line-boats,  two  and  a  hu'f 
cents  per  mile  including  board.  Fare  in  Stage 
Coaches,  average  about  $1,00  per  twenty  miles. 
0:^  Don't  suffer  yourself  to  be  imposed  upon, 
turned  from  your  route,  imd  subjected  to  unneces- 
sary ex^)ense  and  trouble,  by  interested  Boat  and 
Stage  runners  and  agents.  Much  complaint  is 
made,  and  that  justly,  about  these  things  of  fre- 
quent occurrence.  ^^ 


t     !     I 


II 


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11 


80 


From  Steam  Boat  landing  across  to 

Chippewa,  .         -         -         - 

From  Fort  Schlosser  to  Chippewa, 

"     PaviUon  Hotel,  to         do 
Across  the  River  at  the  Falls, 
To  Goat  Island  by  the  Bridge, 
Across  the  Falls  on  the  Ameri<  >4n 

side,  -  -         -         -         - 

Across  the  foot  of  Goat  Island, 
Length  of  Goat  Island, 
Across  the  Horse  Shoe  Falls, 
Depth  of  Water  at  the  Horse  Shoe, 
Depth  of  water  at  the  Ferry,    - 
From  the  Eagle  Hotel  across  to  the 

the  Canada  side,   1|  miles  viz  : 
From  the  Eagle  Hotel  to  top  of  the 

Bank, 
Top  of  the  Bank   down   the   Stair 

Case    to  the  River, 
Width  of  River  at  the  Ferry, 
Up  the  Canada  Bank,     r 
From  the  top  of  the  Bank  to  the  Pa- 
vilion,        ->         -         -         ^ 


2|-  Miles. 
2       *' 

58  Rods. 

56  " 
80       " 

160 

114  ♦' 
20  Feet. 

250 

Pavilion  on 


-  100  Rods. 

.     28        " 

-  76       *' 

-  76       *' 


-  256        »^ 


536  Rods. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4S03 


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From  the  Fails  to  the  Mineral  Spring,     2  Miles. 
To  the  Whirpool,  •         .       3 

To  the  DeviPs  Hole,      -         -     3^ 
To  Erie  Canal  at  Tonawanta,  -     11 

To  Buffalo,  .         -         -         -22 

From  Buffalo  to  Albany,  by  Canal,  -  363 
"     By  Stage  through  Utica,  298 


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By   Cherry  Valley,  284 

To  Olean  Point,  -  -  76 
Fredonia,  -  -  -  45 
Erie,  -  -  -  -  90 
Cleveland,  -  -  -  188 
Columbus,  .  -  -  328 
Pittsburg  by  way  of  Erie,  219 

-  250 

-  310 

-  627 
.  807 

1000 

-  446 

-  381 

-  129 
.  45 
.  143 
.  133 

-  156 


Sandusky,    - 
Detroit, 
Mackinaw,  - 
Green  Bay, 
Sault  St.  Mary,     - 
Cincinnati,   - 
Chillicothe, 
From  Erie  Pa.  to  Pittsburgh,  - 

^        "     Ashtabula,    - 
From  Ashtabula  to  Wheeling, 
From  Cleveland  to  Pittsburgh, 
•*         "     Zanesville,   - 


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Sandusky,    -         -         -     84 
"     Columbus,  -         -         -  139 
"     Cincinnati,  -         -         -  252 
Ohio  Canal  from  Cleveland  to  Ports- 
mouth,        306 

From  Sandusky  to  Cincinnati,  -  213 

"     Louisville,    -         -        .-  359 

"     Nashville,    -         -         -  540 

"     St.  Louis,    .         .         -517 

"         "     New  Orleans,       -  1727 

From  Detroit  to  Chicago  by  land,     -  250 

From  Detroit  to  Niagara  Falls  by  land 

through  Canada,  •         *         -  244 

From   Niagara  Falls  to  Tuscarora 

Village,  -         .         -         -       8 

From  Niagara  Falls  to  Lewiston,  -  7 
Fort  Niagara,  -  -  14 
Burlington  Bay  by  land,  62 
Toronto  by  land,  -  -  107 
Toronto  by  Steam  Boat,  50 
Genesee  River,  -  -  94 
Oswego,  -  -  -  154 
Sackets  Harbor,  -  -  179 
Ogdensburgh,  -  .  -  264 
Prescott,      -         -  -  265 

Montreal,     -         -         -  406 


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"     Quebec, 
From  Quebec  to  mouth  of  St.  Law 


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rence, 


Quebec  to  Boston, 
From  Montreal  to  Boston, 

"         "     St.  Johns,    - 
St.  Johns  to  Whitehall, 
Whitehall  to  Albany, 
From  Albany  to  Saratoga, 

"     Northampton, 

"     Boston, 

"     Hartford, 

"     Litchfield,     - 

"     New  Haven, 
From  Niagara  Falls  to  Lockport, 

"     Rochester,  • 

"     Canandaigua, 

"     Albany  by  Cherry  Val- 
ley Turnpike,     - 

"     New  York, 

**     Philadelphia, 

*'     Baltimore,    - 

**     Washington, 


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4( 


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44 


44 


400 

44 

484 

44 

304 

44 

27 

44 

150 

44 

72 

44 

36 

44 

70 

44 

160 

4( 

95 

44 

72 

44 

110 

44 

20 

44 

84 

44 

112 

44 

300 

44 

450 

44 

540 

44 

636 

44 

674 

44 

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14 


A  LIST 

Of  the  principal  places  on  the  Canal,  and  their  distance 
from  each  other,  as  adopted  by  the  Canal  Board. 


o  JNCTION  AND  ERIE  CANALS. 


. 

DISTANCE    FROM 

NAMES  OF  PLACES. 

o 

'E. 

• 

u 

• 

o 

- 

o 

• 

•3 

o 

0 

< 

0 

p 

rt 

PO 

Albany,         

110J270  363 

West-Troy, 

7 

7 

103  263  356 

Junction, 

2 

9 

101 

261354 

Lowei  Aqueduct,      -         -        -        . 

5 

14 

96 

256,349 

Upper  Aqueduct,           -        -        - 

12 

26 

84 

244  337 

1 

Schenectady, 

4 

30 

80 

240,333 

Rotterdam,            .        -        -        - 

9 

39 

71 

231 

324 

Amsterdam, 

7 

46 

64 

224 

317 

Schoharie  Creek,          -         -        * 

7 

53 

57 

217 

310 

Caughnawaga,          -        -         -        - 

4 

57 

53 

213366 

Spraker's  Basin,            -        .        - 

9 

6Q 

44 

204  297 

1 

Canajoharie, 

3 

69 

41 

201294 

Fort-Plain,            .        .        .        - 

8 

72 

88 

198291 

Feeder,             -        - 

4 

76 

34 

194 

287 

Indian  Castle,      -        -        -        - 

7 

83 

27 

187 

280 

Fink's  Ferry,            .        -        .        - 

3 

86 

24 

184 

277 

Little  Falls,          .        -        .        . 

2 

88 

22 

182:276 

Herkimer  Lower  Bridge, 

7 

95 

15 

175268 

Herkimer  Upper  Bridge, 

1 

96 

14 

174 

267 

J'.Jf**'*"*'^'*"*''***^" 


K    < 


t 


94 


NAMES  OF  PLACES. 


German  Flatts,  (Bennet's,) 

Frankfort, 

Utica,       -        -        -        - 

Whitesborough, 

Oriskany,  ... 

Rome,  -        -         - 

Hawley's  Basin, 

New-London, 

Loomis',  -        -        - 

Oneida  Creek, 

Lenox  Basin, 

Canastota, 

New-Boston,    - 

Chittenango, 

Kirkville,  .        -        - 

Manlius, 

Orville,  -        -        - 

Syracuse, 

Geddes,  .        -       .- 

Bellisle, 

Nine-Mile  Creek, 

Camillas,     -        -        - 

Canton,  .        -        - 

Peru,  .        -        - 

Jordan,     -        -        .        - 

Weedsport, 

Centreport,       -        -        - 

Port  Byron, 

Montezuma,  (Lakeport,) 

Clyde, 

Lyons,     .        -        -        - 

Lockville, 


DISTANCE  FROM. 


o 

a 

3- 
o 


1 
3 
10 
4 
8 
8 
4 
3 
6 
3 
3 
2 
4 


a 


97 
100 
110 
114 
117 
125 
129 
132 
138 
141 
144 
146 
150 
4154 


4 
4 
3 
6 
2 
4 
2 
1 
5 
3 
3 
6 
1 
2 
6 
U 
9 
6 


158 
162 
165 
171 
173 
177 
179 
180 
185 
188 
191 
197 
198 
200 
206 
217 
226 
232 


I 


o 

3   ■    =* 
P^  ■■   m 


13  173  266 

10  170263 

0  160|253 

4  156  249 

7  153246 

15  145|238 

19  141234 

22  138  231 

28  132225 

31  129222 

34|l26219 

36  124217 


40 
44 
48 
52 


120,213 
116*1209 
112|205 
108  201 


65il05 


61 
63 
67 
69 
70 
75 
78 
81 
87 
88 
90 
96 
107 
116 
122 


99 
97 
93 
91 
90 
85 
82 
79 
73 
72 
70 
64 
53 
44 
88 


198 
192 
190 
186 
184 
183 
178 
175 
172 
166 
165 
163 
157 
146 
137 
131 


M 


95 


NAMES   OF  PLACES. 


Newark, 

Port  Gibson, 

Palmyra, 

Macedon, 

Perrinton, 

Fairport, 

Fullam's  Basin, 

Bushii ell's  Basin, 

Pittsford, 

Rochester, 

Spencer's  Basin, 

Ogden, 

Adams'  Basin, 

Coolev's  Basin, 

Brockport, 

Holley, 

Murray,   - 

Albion,  (Newport,) 

Gaines'  Basin, 

Eagle  Harbor, 

Portville, 

Knovvlesville, 

Medina,    - 

Middleport, 

Reynolds'  Basin, 

Gasport, 

Lock  port, 

Pendleton,    - 

Atkins,     - 

Tonavvanta, 

Black  Rock, 

Buffalo, 


DISTANCE  f'ROM. 

o 

o 

• 

• 

u 

'r-> 

u 

en 

O 

p:; 

• 

o 

i 

s 

1 

2o3 

123 

37130 

3 

2o6 

126 

34  127 

5 

241 

131 

29122 

7 

248 

138 

22115 

1 

249 

139 

21114 

3 

252 

142 

18111 

2-164 

144 

16 

109 

3 

257 

147 

13 

106 

3 

26*0 

150 

10  103 

10 

270 

160 

0 

93 

10 

280 

170 

10 

83 

2 

282 

172 

12 

81 

3 

285 

175 

15 

78 

3 

288 

178 

18 

75 

2 

290 

180 

20 

73 

5 

295 

185 

25 

68 

2 

297 

187 

27 

QQ 

8305 

195 

35  58 

2 

307 

197 

37  56 

1 

308 

198 

38  55 

1 

309 

199 

39 

54 

2 

311 

201 

41 

52 

4 

315 

205 

45 

48 

6321 

211 

51 

42 

4325 

215 

55 

38 

2327 

217 

57 

36 

6  333 

223 

63 

30 

7340 

230 

70 

23 

8348 

238 

78 

15 

4,352 

242 

82 

11 

8360 

250 

90 

3 

8 

363 

253 

93 

0 

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